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Title: The soup and sauce book

Author: Elizabeth Douglas

Release date: July 2, 2022 [eBook #68446]

Most recently updated: October 18, 2024

Language: English

Original publication: United Kingdom: Grant Richards, 1903

Other information and formats: www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/68446

Credits: The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE SOUP AND SAUCE BOOK ***

The New Cookery Books

I

The Soup and Sauce Book

THE

NEW COOKERY BOOKS.

By ELIZABETH DOUGLAS.

Fcap. 8vo, cloth 2s. each.

I.

THE SOUP AND SAUCE BOOK.

II.

THE CAKE AND BISCUIT BOOK.

III.

THE PASTRY AND SWEET BOOK.

London: GRANT RICHARDS.

The

Soup and Sauce Book

By

Elizabeth Douglas

London

Grant Richards

48 Leicester Square

Preface

The English—to their loss—are not a soup-eating nation; and for the most part, those of us that do care for soups are obstinately conservative in our tastes. The ordinary restaurant thinks it has done its duty when ox-tail, mock-turtle and tomato soup have been included in the bill of fare. Yet the range of soups is very wide, as the hundred pages of recipes (by no means exhaustive) that follow will show; and that they may lead some readers to add to the elasticity of the domestic menu, is the ambition of the compiler. All are good, few are expensive, and none exotic. I should like it to be understood also that the directions need not be considered absolutely final. Every recipe can be made the basis of mild experiment, by slight differences in the ingredients or quantities. Two final remarks: soup never ought to be served in large quantities (our tendency in England when we take it is to take too much); and in the preparation of it the first and last word is “simmer.”

E. D.

Table of Contents

Soups

PAGES

Stocks

7-11

Clear Soups

16-22

Thick Soups

24-33

Thickened Vegetable Soups made with Stock

35-40

Vegetable Soups made without Stock

42-48

Soups thickened with a Liaison of Cream and Yolk of Egg

51-58

Vegetable Purées

61-70

Meat Purées

73-76

Bisques

78-80

Fish Soups

82-85

Broths

87-92

Broths and Soups for Invalids

95-101

Accessories

104-108

Sauces

Hot Sauces for Fish

112-116

Hot Sauces for Roasts, Steaks, Cutlets, etc.

118-124

Hot Sauces for Fowls, Ducks, Rabbits, etc.

126-130

Hot Sauces for Game, etc.

132-135

Cold Sauces

137-141

INDEX

143-146

General Remarks on Stock

Stock is the basis of all soups, except those which the French call potages maigres, which have no meat in them. For clear soups the stock is a good consommé, which must be made absolutely clear, and without any fat. For thick white soups, chicken or veal stock is used. For brown thick soups, a dark stock. For purées, white or brown stock, according to their colour.

Stock will keep for several days—in winter for a week.

A tea-spoonful of Liebig’s Extract of Meat will greatly improve the flavour of a poor stock.

Utensils.—Of special utensils for making soup, porcelain-lined sauce-pans are the most satisfactory, and should always be used if possible. There is nothing so good or clean as the large French pot au feu, which can be bought in Soho. Earthenware sauce-pans are also good.

It saves trouble when straining soup to have a large deep bowl or jar, and a colander or wire sieve which fits perfectly into it.

Wooden or silver spoons should be used.

The fire.—In making stock it is most important to have a steady fire, which need not be interfered with, so that an even temperature may be kept. Stock should be allowed to come slowly to the boil, and then be set back to simmer so gently that bubbles rise from one side only of the pot.

To prepare fresh meat for stock.—Look over the meat carefully. Cut away any part which is in the slightest degree tainted. Wipe the meat over with a clean cloth that has been dipped in cold water and wrung out. Cut the meat off the bones. Cut it into small pieces. Break the bones. If there is any marrow, take it out and spread it on the bottom of the pot that is to be used.

Vegetables.—In hot weather it is better to make stock without vegetables, as they often turn it sour.

See that all vegetables used are perfectly clean. Cut them in two or three pieces if to be used for flavouring stock. If they are to be served with the soup, cut them regularly and carefully to the size required, and do not cook them in the soup for more than half-an-hour, or their flavour will be impaired.

Vegetables should be added in the proportion of about one carrot, one onion (or leek), half a turnip, a piece of celery, to every quart of stock. In the onion can be stuck a clove.

Herbs.—To flavour stock with herbs, it is best to use a bouquet (i.e. a small bunch of mixed herbs, a sprig or leaf each of sage, thyme, marjoram bay and parsley). This can be easily taken out of the soups before serving. If ground herbs are used, add about a tea-spoonful of mixed herbs to every quart of stock.

Seasoning.—It is not necessary to season the original stock. In making it into different soups, the seasoning is of course a matter of taste; but, roughly speaking, to each quart may be put one small tea-spoonful of salt, two pepper-corns, or half a salt-spoon of ground pepper, and one clove.

To remove fat from stock.—Every particle of fat must be removed from the stock from which clear soups are to be made. With stock which is to be thickened it is not so necessary to be particular, as the flour used for the purpose will absorb a good deal of fat. With broths, which should be particularly nourishing, it is merely a matter of taste how much fat is removed.

To remove fat from stock it is best to let it first become quite cold. The fat will then become quite solid, and can easily be removed with a knife. To remove the small particles which may still be left, dip a cloth in hot water, wring it out, and pass it over the stock. It will absorb all the fat.

If there is not time to allow the stock to cool first, a great deal of fat can be absorbed by tissue paper, which should be laid over it. Or it can be strained two or three times through cloths which have been put in very cold water and wrung out.

To clarify stock for clear soups.—The addition of a little cold water to boiling stock will cause the scum to rise quickly. This can be done several times, and if thoroughly strained the stock should be clear.

To clarify soup more effectually, although the flavour is not improved by doing so, the white and shell of an egg are used. To every quart of stock (and it must be cold) add the white and broken shell of an egg. Beat together. Put in the pot, stir continually until hot. Then let it boil, untouched, for about ten minutes. Set back on the oven, throw in half a cup of cold water, and allow it to stand for ten minutes. Place a colander over the bowl, and when you are ready to strain the soup, put over the colander a napkin which has been dipped in very hot water and then wrung out. Let it drain through slowly, without any pressure, shifting the napkin gently if any part becomes clogged.

Straining.—It is well, as I have said, to have a large, deep bowl, with a colander or strainer that fits tightly into it. Put a napkin or muslin over the colander, and take the soup out of the sauce-pan with a cup or ladle. Let it drain about a quarter of an hour without any pressure.

The napkins and muslin used for straining may be old, but must be fine and absolutely clean and sweet.

Stocks

PAGE

Brown Soup Stock

7

Common Stock

7

Clear Brown Stock

8

Consommé

9

Chicken Stock

9

Veal Stock

10

Economical Stock

10

Common Stock

1 lb. shin of beef

1 quart cold water

Two or three vegetables

Cut the meat up into small pieces. Put it in a sauce-pan, and add the water. Allow it to stand for half-an-hour. Then put it on the fire. Let it come to the boil slowly. Simmer for two hours. Strain.

Brown Soup Stock

3 lbs. shin of beef

1 lb. bones

3 quarts cold water

2 carrots, 1 turnip

2 stalks of celery

3 onions

3 cloves

Bouquet of herbs

Cut the meat into small pieces. Break the bones. Put three ounces of butter in a sauce-pan. When melted, add to it one-third of the meat and the onions sliced. Stew gently until a rich brown. Put with the rest of the meat, bones, etc., in a sauce-pan. Cover with water. Bring to the boil. Simmer four hours. Strain.

Clear Brown Stock

2 lbs. shin of beef

1 lb. knuckle of veal

The carcase and bones of a fowl

3 pints of water

1 carrot

1 onion with a clove stuck in it

1 stick of celery

1 piece of parsley

A small bouquet of herbs

Put the bones at the bottom of a sauce-pan. Place the meat, which should be cut up in small pieces, upon them. Cover with cold water. Leave the sauce-pan uncovered. Bring to the boil very slowly. When it boils throw in a half cup of cold water. (This will cause the scum to rise.) Skim. Bring to the boil again. Throw in a little more cold water. Skim. Bring to the boil. Add the vegetables. Set back on the fire, and allow it to simmer gently for three or four hours.

Strain through a napkin into a bowl and allow it to cool.

If required the soup can be further clarified (p. 4).

Consommé

1 lb. shin of beef

1 lb. veal

The bones and carcases of fowls or game

2 quarts of stock

Vegetables

The white of an egg

Cut away all fat from the meat. Chop it up finely. Put the white of an egg in a basin. Add to it the chopped meat. Mix them well together with a silver spoon. Stir in a glass of cold water. Put the meat into a large sauce-pan. Add vegetables, the bones and carcases of birds. Cover with two quarts of good stock. Bring to the boil, stirring occasionally to prevent the meat from sticking to the sauce-pan.

When it boils, set back to simmer gently for three hours. Dip a napkin in hot water, wring it out, and strain the stock through it into a basin.

Chicken Stock

1 old fowl

1 quart water

1 carrot

1 stick of celery

1 small onion

Put the fowl and vegetables into a stew-pan, adding the bones or carcase of another fowl if possible. Cover with cold water, or weak clear stock. Let it boil up slowly and simmer for three hours. Skim. Pass the stock through a napkin, and set aside to cool.

Veal Stock

1 lb. knuckle of veal

Chicken bones or carcases

1 quart of water

Vegetables

1 blade of mace

1 clove

Cut up the veal. Break the bones. Add vegetables and spice. Cover with the water. Bring slowly to the boil. Simmer for two or three hours. Strain.

Economical Stock for thick Soups, Purées, etc.

An excellent although not very clear stock can be made from odds and ends of cooked meat and bones. For this purpose there should be an enamelled pot with a lightly fitting lid, and it should practically be kept in use continually.

Spread the bottom of the pot with butter, or marrow. Pack in pieces of meat, bone, gristle, the carcases of birds, two or three vegetables cut up in small pieces, two cloves, and a bouquet of herbs.

Cover the meat, etc., with cold water. Put on the lid. Heat slowly, and when it boils set back to simmer for four or five hours.

In preparing meat for this stock, look it over carefully; reject any piece which is not perfectly good, also all stuffing, skin, smoked or burnt pieces. A little beef fat can always be retained, but mutton fat should not be used as it is rank in flavour. Scrape the meat off the bones, and break the bones in small pieces.

A slice or two of lean ham, the gravy saved from any kind of roast, a little fresh meat finely chopped will greatly improve this stock.

General Remarks on Soups

Utensils and Fire.—The remarks on pages 1 and 2 concerning the utensils and fire for making stock, apply also to the preparation of soups from stock.

To thicken soups with flour only.—Mix flour or cornflour with a little cold water, milk or stock until perfectly smooth. Add more water or milk. Strain. Pour slowly into the soup, which should be nearly boiling. Let it come to a boil. Continue boiling for ten minutes (stirring all the time), or it will taste of flour. About one table-spoon of flour should be used to thicken each quart of stock.

To thicken soups with butter and flour (roux).—Melt some butter. Skim it till quite clear. Pour it into an earthenware sauce-pan, and add to it its weight in flour. Work with a wooden spoon until perfectly smooth. Stir over a fire for a few minutes. Then put it in a moderate oven. Stir occasionally, and be very particular that it does not colour or burn. It should be left in the oven from thirty to forty-five minutes. This thickening, which is called white roux, is used for white soups. Brown roux for brown soups is made in the same way, but is left in the oven until slightly coloured. It will keep for some time.

When adding roux to soups it is best first to melt it in a small sauce-pan, to thin it with a little hot stock, and then to add it gradually to the soups.

If the roux has not been prepared beforehand, the quantity required can be made in a short time by cooking the flour and butter together in a sauce-pan for five minutes for white roux or longer for brown roux. It should be stirred all the time.

A heaping table-spoon (or more) of roux should be added to every quart of soup to be thickened.

Cornflour and roux.—The advantage of roux over cornflour is that the flour used in preparing the roux having been already cooked, it is not necessary to continue boiling the soups to which it is added, whereas cornflour being raw, the soups thickened by it must be boiled for some little time.

To colour soups.—The colour of soups can be deepened by using caramel colouring, or glaze (see next page) (which will also add to their flavour).

Caramel colouring.—Put half a pound of brown or white sugar in an iron sauce-pan, with a table-spoonful of water. Stir over a very gentle fire until it turns a deep, rich brown colour. Add half a pint of boiling water. Let it simmer very gently for twenty minutes. Allow it to get cold. Put it into bottles and cork. This makes an excellent and tasteless colouring, but it must be carefully made. The rich brown colour comes from slow and gentle cooking. If it is burnt and black it is useless.

Add to the soup a few minutes only before serving.

Glaze.—Glaze is made by boiling down good stock until it is of a very thick and gluey consistency. Put a quart of rich stock into a sauce-pan over a good fire. Leave it uncovered, and boil it until it is reduced to half a pint. Let it cool. Put it in a jar or bottle. Cover closely, and keep in a cool place. This will keep for two or three weeks.

Adding vegetables and meat to soups.—Whenever vegetables or meats have to be passed through a sieve or tammy, it will be found easier to do so if the pulp is kept continually well moistened with stock or milk (according to the soup which is being made).

Wine and catsup.—Wine and catsup should always be added as late as possible, as they lose in flavour by being boiled.

Clear Soups

PAGE

Brunoise

16

Consommé with poached eggs

16

Croûte au pot

17

” ” gratinée

18

Game Soup

18

Imperial Soup

19

Julienne

20

Macaroni

20

Spring Soup

21

Vermicelli

22

Clear Soups with quenelles

22

Brunoise

3 pints strong consommé

1 carrot

1 turnip

1 leek

1 onion

1 stick of celery

1 small tea-cupful freshly cooked peas

”      ”          ”      ”    asparagus points

”      ”          ”      ”    French beans

Cut the carrot, turnip, leek, onion and celery into small dice-shaped pieces, using the red outer part of the carrot only. Fry them in butter until a light brown. Add them to the consommé, and after it has come to the boil, simmer gently until the vegetables are perfectly tender. Skim from time to time. Season. Add the cooked peas, beans and asparagus points. The beans should be cut into diamond-shaped pieces.

Consommé with poached eggs

6 eggs

1 quart consommé

Break the eggs carefully into boiling water, taking care that they do not run into each other. Cook until firmly set, but not hard. Take them out, put them on a dish, and trim neatly. Put them in a soup tureen and gently pour over them the hot consommé. Finely chopped and cooked vegetables may be added to the consommé.

Croûte au pot

1 quart clear brown stock

¹⁄₄ of a white cabbage

1 carrot

¹⁄₂ a turnip

A little celery

2 thin slices of bread

Cut the celery, carrot and turnip into small equal pieces. Cut up the heart of the cabbage, and cook separately in salted water. Put the vegetables in a sauce-pan. Pour the stock over them. Simmer until tender. Add the cabbage. Season. Simmer for a few minutes. Toast the bread. Cut it into several pieces. Put them in a soup tureen. Pour the vegetables and stock over them. Serve. Grated parmesan can be served with this soup.

Croûte au pot gratinée

1 quart clear brown stock

1 tea-cup of mixed cooked vegetables cut in small pieces

4 small dinner rolls

Take out the crumb from the inside of three or four rolls. Put the crusts in an earthenware sauce-pan, and cover with a little clear brown stock. Let them simmer over a gentle fire until they have absorbed all the stock. Then put them in the oven until they are crisp, being very careful that they do not burn. Place them in a soup tureen with the cooked vegetables. Pour the well-seasoned boiling stock over them.

Game Soup

1 calf’s foot

1 or 2 birds (game), or the carcases and bones of several

1 slice lean ham

2 carrots

1 onion

1 piece of celery

1 sprig parsley

1 bay leaf

Thyme

2 cloves

1 blade of mace

2 quarts of water

1 glass of sherry

Clean and cut up the calf’s foot. Put in a stew-pan with one or two whole birds (game), or the carcases and bones of several, a small piece of lean ham, the vegetables, herbs, etc. Cover with 2 quarts of water. Bring to the boil. Skim. Simmer for three hours. Season. Strain. When cold clarify with white of egg (p. 4). Before serving add a glass of sherry, and two dozen small quenelles of game (p. 105).

Imperial Soup

1 quart clear consommé

For Custard

1 gill consommé

4 yolks of eggs

Nutmeg

Salt

Beat the yolks in a basin. Add a little salt and nutmeg. Stir in the consommé. Strain through a fine hair sieve into a shallow plain mould. Put it into a pan of boiling water, and steam until it sets. Turn out carefully on to a wet napkin. Cut into fancy or square shapes. Half of the mixture can, if wished, be coloured green with spinach colouring (p. 104). Place the custards carefully in a tureen, and pour the hot consommé over them.

Julienne

2 large carrots

1 turnip

1 piece of celery

1 small onion

¹⁄₄ white cabbage

1 lettuce

A little sorrel

1 quart consommé

2 ozs. butter

Cut all the vegetables into thin shreds of equal length (about one inch). Use the red outer part of the carrots only, and the hearts of the lettuce and cabbage. Wash the sorrel and cabbage separately, and set aside. Put two ounces of butter and a salt-spoon of powdered sugar in a sauce-pan, add to it all the vegetables except the cabbage and sorrel. Let them turn a fine yellow, but be careful not to burn. Add the consommé. Bring to the boil. Drain. Season. Set back to simmer until the vegetables are tender. Then add the cabbage and sorrel, a leaf of tarragon and chervil. Simmer another ten minutes and serve.

Macaroni Soup

1 quart stock

¹⁄₂ pint macaroni

Cook the macaroni in boiling salted water half-an-hour. Drain. Pour cold water through the macaroni to prevent its sticking together. Put the sticks on a board and cut it, either very finely to make rings, or in half-inch pieces. Bring stock to the boil. Add the macaroni. Season.

Spring Soup

2 carrots

1 turnip

¹⁄₂ a head of celery

10 small onions

1 tea-cup of cauliflower cut into little branches

Heart of a small white cabbage-lettuce

A small handful of sorrel

A leaf of chervil and of tarragon

¹⁄₄ pint peas

¹⁄₄ pint asparagus points

¹⁄₄ pint croûtons

1 quart consommé

Cut the carrots and turnip into small rounds or olive-shaped pieces. Add them, with the chopped up celery, whole onions and cauliflower, to a quart of consommé or chicken stock. Bring it to the boil. Simmer for half-an-hour. Stamp the sorrel and lettuce into small round pieces. Add them, with a leaf of chervil and of tarragon and a tea-spoon of sugar, to the soup. When all the vegetables are tender add a quarter of a pint of young peas and the same quantity of asparagus heads both freshly cooked. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).

Vermicelli

¹⁄₄ lb. vermicelli

1 quart consommé

Break up the vermicelli in small pieces. Put it in cold water. Bring it to the boil, and boil it for four minutes. Drain it. Pour cold water through it. Put it in a sauce-pan with the consommé, which should be very clear, strong and well seasoned. Let it boil up. Skim. Simmer until the vermicelli is tender.

Serve with grated parmesan in a separate dish.

Other Clear Soups

Clear soups can also be served with Italian paste, forcemeat balls, quenelles, rice, etc. For recipes for these see pages 103-108.

Thick Soups

PAGE

Brown Soup

24

Cream of Pearl Barley

25

Cream of Rice

25

Giblet Soup

26

Hare Soup

27

Left-over Soup

28

Mock-Turtle

29

Mulligatawny

30

Ox-tail

31

Venison Soup

33

Brown Soup

The water in which a joint of mutton has been boiled

1 carrot

1 onion

1 turnip

1 head of celery

¹⁄₂ pint cooked young peas

Brown roux

1 ounce of butter

1 tea-spoonful Liebig’s Extract of Meat

1 lump sugar

Boil down the water to one quart. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat carefully. Cut the vegetables into small equal pieces. Fry them a rich brown in one ounce of butter. Put the stock on the fire again. Add the vegetables and sugar. Simmer until they are tender. Add the peas. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Thicken with brown roux (see p. 12). Simmer another fifteen minutes. A few minutes before serving add a little caramel colouring (see p. 13) and the Liebig’s Extract.

Cream of Pearl Barley

¹⁄₂ lb. pearl barley

1 quart chicken stock

1 gill cream

Wash the barley thoroughly. Throw it into boiling water and let it boil quickly for ten minutes. Drain it. Pour cold water through it to separate the barley. Put the stock in a sauce-pan. Add the barley to it. Simmer for four hours—or until the barley is very tender. Set aside a little of the barley to add whole to the stock. Put the rest through a tammy. Add it to the stock with the whole barley. Season. Scald a gill of cream. Add to the soup.

If preferred the barley may be cooked separately in water.

Cream of Rice

¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice

1 quart chicken stock

1 gill cream

1 tea-spoon of butter

Wash the rice and boil it several minutes in water. Drain. Add it to the stock. Simmer until the rice is tender. Rub through a tammy. Just before serving mix with the soup a gill of cream and a tea-spoonful of butter.

A little whole rice which has been boiled in chicken broth can be added to the soup, or it can be served with a dozen small quenelles of chicken (see p. 105).

Giblet Soup

1 set of giblets

1 whole onion

1 chopped onion

Grated rind of the third of a lemon

A few drops of lemon juice

1 oz. butter

1 table-spoon flour

1 glass white wine

Small bouquet of herbs

2 cloves

1 quart of stock

Scald and cut in pieces a set of giblets. Put in a sauce-pan with a quart of good stock, a whole onion stuck with two cloves and the lemon rind. Simmer until the giblets are very tender. Strain off the stock. Make a brown roux of the butter and flour (see p. 12). Add it to the stock with the herbs and an onion chopped fine. Boil hard for ten minutes. Strain through a fine sieve. Add a glass of white wine. Season with cayenne, salt, and a few drops of lemon juice.

Hare Soup

A large fresh hare

2 onions

1 carrot

2 pieces of celery

Bouquet of herbs

4 cloves

4 pepper-corns

Cayenne

1 glass of port

2 quarts of cold water

Cut a perfectly fresh hare into pieces, being careful to save all the blood. Let the pieces soak in two quarts of cold water in a stew-pan for an hour. Add the blood, and set on the fire. Bring to the boil, stirring and skimming frequently. Add the vegetables, herbs, spices and pepper-corns. Simmer gently for two or three hours. Strain off the liquid. Cut the meat from the bones. Set aside some of the best to be cut into small pieces. Pound the rest in a mortar and put through a tammy (see p. 60). Return to the sauce-pan with the stock. When it boils season highly, add a glass of port wine, and the small pieces of hare which have been reserved. Serve. Force-meat balls (see p. 104) may be added also.

Left-over Soup

Bones and trimmings of a 6 lb. roast of beef

1 mutton chop

¹⁄₂ lb. fresh gravy beef

2 quarts cold water

2 cloves

2 pepper-corns

1 baked apple

¹⁄₂ cup of cold boiled onions

2 pieces of celery

Bouquet of herbs

1 cup cooked tomato, or 1 cup boiled macaroni

Cut up the meat. Break the bones. Put in a stew-pan with the cold water, vegetables, spices and apple. Bring to the boil. Simmer for two or three hours. Strain. Set aside to cool. Remove fat. When required heat to boiling point. Season. Add the tomato or macaroni.

Mock-Turtle

1 calf’s head

1 old fowl (partly roasted)

1 knuckle of veal

3 slices raw ham

2 quarts of stock

Carrots, celery, green onions

¹⁄₂ lb. mushrooms

4 shallots

A large bouquet of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, sweet basil and marjoram

8 cloves

2 blades of mace

¹⁄₂ pint sherry

Tea-spoonful lemon juice

White roux

Scald a calf’s head. Bone it. (Do this by making a sharp incision down to the bone from the back of the head to the nose and peeling back the flesh on each side with a knife.) Put the head in a sauce-pan. Cover it with cold water. Boil it for quarter of an hour, skimming from time to time. Then take it out and put it in a basin full of cold water.

Butter the bottom of a large stock-pot. Put in it an old fowl partly roasted (of which the breast is kept back for forcemeat balls), a knuckle of veal, the ham, and two quarts of good stock. Boil quickly until the stock is reduced to one pint. Set back to simmer gently for half-an-hour. Fill up the stock-pot with water.

Take the head out of the water. Pare away any rough parts in the mouth. Put in the stock-pot. Bring to the boil. Skim thoroughly. Add the vegetables, spices and bouquet. Simmer gently until the head is tender. Remove the head. Strain the broth. When the meat is cool cut it up into small squares (reserving a little for forcemeat balls).

Thicken the stock with light-coloured roux (p. 12). Let it boil up. Skim off the butter that comes to the surface. Add half a pint of sherry. Season with cayenne. Add a tea-spoonful of lemon juice, and the pieces of calf’s head. Boil ten minutes. Add two or three dozen forcemeat balls (see p. 104).

Mulligatawny

2 chickens (or 2 rabbits)

2 quarts veal stock

2 carrots

4 onions

1 head of celery and

2 pieces of celery

A bouquet of herbs and parsley

2 table-spoons flour

1 table-spoon curry powder

1  ”          ”  paste

¹⁄₂ lb. Patna rice

¹⁄₄ lb. butter

Cut up the chickens or rabbits into small pieces. Put them in a sauce-pan with a quart of good veal stock and a carrot, turnip, apple, parsley, and a bouquet of herbs. Bring to the boil and simmer gently until the meat is tender, stirring from time to time. Strain off the stock. Cut the meat from the bones, and set aside to cool.

Fry three onions, a carrot, and a head of celery (all finely sliced) very slowly in a quarter of a pound of butter until they are a rich golden brown. Add two table-spoons of flour. Stir in till smooth. Add a table-spoon of curry powder, and the same quantity of curry paste. Season with cayenne and salt. Add the vegetables to the stock, and add more veal stock if required. Let it boil up. Skim. Simmer half-an-hour very gently. Put through a tammy. Pour over the meat of the chickens or rabbits (which should be cut into neat pieces). Heat gently, and simmer for another ten minutes. If desired half a pint of scalded cream can be added just before serving. Serve with plain boiled Patna rice (see p. 106).

Ox-tail Soup

1 ox tail

2 quarts water or stock

1 onion

2 carrots

2 ozs. butter

1 head of celery

2 cloves

2 pepper-corns

Blade of mace

A lump of sugar

¹⁄₂ a pint of mixed parboiled vegetables

Wash the ox tail and cut it up into joints. Lay these in cold water for two hours. Slice finely a large onion and two carrots. Melt two ounces of butter in a sauce-pan and fry the onion and carrots in it. When they are slightly browned add the ox tail. Brown it a little. Put the vegetables and ox tail in a stock-pot. Add the celery finely cut up. Cover with two quarts of water or beef stock. Add the spice and seasoning. Bring to the boil. Skim thoroughly. Simmer until the meat separates from the bone and the gristle is quite soft. Strain through a napkin.

Cut the best of the meat into pieces. Put them into a stew-pan. Add the strained stock, half a pint of mixed parboiled vegetables cut in small rounds, or olive-shaped, a lump of sugar and more pepper if required. Heat and simmer until vegetables are tender.

The vegetables should be shaped with a vegetable cutter, and are best parboiled in a little stock.

Ox-tail soup may be thickened by a purée of carrots, turnips, peas or lentils. The purée is made by boiling whichever vegetable is required until very tender, and pressing it through a sieve or tammy. Add it to the strained stock and mix well.

Venison Soup

1¹⁄₂ lbs. venison

¹⁄₂ lb. salt pork or raw ham

1 onion

¹⁄₂ a head of celery

1 blade of mace

6 pepper-corns

Brown roux

1 table-spoon Worcester sauce

1  ”        Mushroom ketchup

1 glass Madeira or brown sherry

Cut up the meat and vegetables. Put them in a stew-pan. Add just enough water to cover them. Stew them slowly, with the lid on, for an hour. Add nearly a quart of boiling water, the mace and pepper-corns. Simmer for two hours. Strain. Season. Thicken with brown roux (one table-spoon butter, one table-spoon flour, see p. 12). Add the Worcester sauce, mushroom ketchup, and wine.

Thickened Vegetable Soups made with Stock

PAGE

Artichoke Soup

35

Asparagus Soup

35

Cauliflower Soup

36

Celery Soup

36

Chestnut Soup

37

Green Pea Soup

37

Mushroom Soup

38

Polish Soup

39

Tomato Soup

39

Artichoke Soup

4 artichokes

2 ozs. butter

1 quart white stock

1 cup cream or milk

1 tea-spoon sugar

Wash and peel the artichokes. Cut them in slices. Put the butter in a sauce-pan. Melt it. Add the artichokes. Allow them to simmer until tender, but be careful not to let them brown. Add the boiling stock and a tea-spoon of sugar. Simmer for half-an-hour. Rub through a tammy. Heat again. Season. At the last minute add a cup of boiling cream or milk.

Asparagus Soup

1 lb. veal

1 quart water

1 large bundle of asparagus

1 table-spoon flour

1 gill of cream

Cut off the stalks of the asparagus. Put them in a stew-pan with the veal (which should be cut up) and water. Bring to the boil. Skim. Simmer for three hours. Strain off the broth. Add the asparagus heads. Season. Boil for twenty minutes. Thicken with a table-spoon of cornflour rubbed smooth in a gill of cream. Boil for ten minutes. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).

Cauliflower Soup

1 quart white stock

1 table-spoon chopped onion

1 pint milk or cream

1 boiled cauliflower

Boil the milk or cream with the onion. Heat the stock. Rub half of the cauliflower through a sieve. Add it to the stock. Add the boiling milk (which has been strained off the onions). Season. Add table-spoonful butter in small pieces, and the rest of the cauliflower cut in small branches.

If wished the soup can be slightly thickened with a table-spoon of white roux. (See p. 12).

Celery Soup

1 quart white stock

4 heads of celery

2 table-spoons white roux

1 gill cream

Put three heads of celery into the stock, and boil until very tender. Strain off the soup, and return to the sauce-pan. Add the fourth head of celery finely cut. Simmer till tender. Thicken with the white roux. Scald a gill of cream and add to the soup. Season and serve.

Chestnut Soup

2 lbs. chestnuts

1 pint consommé

1 pint cream

Boil the chestnuts until tender. Remove shells and peel them whole. Save ten whole, rub all the rest through a fine sieve.

Heat the consommé. Scald the cream. Mix together. Season with salt and pepper. Add the chestnuts. Stir until well mixed, but do not allow the soup to boil. Just before serving cut up the ten chestnuts into small pieces and add to the soup.

Green Pea Soup

1 quart water

1 lb. shin of beef

1 quart young green peas

1 table-spoon flour

1 sprig of mint

Wash and boil the empty pea-pods, with a piece of mint, in a quart of salted water for an hour. Skim. Strain off the pods. Add them to the meat (cut in small pieces) in a sauce-pan. Simmer gently for an hour-and-a-half. Strain off the stock. Season. Add the shelled peas to it. Boil gently for twenty minutes. Add the flour mixed smooth with a little of the stock, and the parsley. Boil for ten minutes.

Mushroom Soup

1 lb. fresh small mushrooms

1 pint rich milk or cream

1 pint consommé

1 table-spoon flour

1 table-spoon butter

Set aside twelve mushrooms. Cut them in half. Cook separately. Chop the rest into small pieces and fry in the butter, adding a table-spoonful of flour and mixing until perfectly smooth. Put in a stew-pan and add the scalded milk or cream, and the boiling consommé. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Season. Rub through a sieve. Strain through muslin. Heat again very gently. Add the cooked mushrooms, and do not allow it to boil.

Polish Soup

1 beet-root

2 onions

1 quart brown stock

1 glass red wine

1 cup thick cream

Cut up the beet-root and onions in small pieces. Put them in a sauce-pan, and pour over them the stock, which should be very rich and of a good dark colour. Bring to a boil and simmer for an hour-and-a-half. Put through a tammy. Put back on the fire, add the wine. Season with salt, pepper and cayenne. Heat well, but do not allow it to boil. Just before serving add the cream, which should be scalded. Or the cream may be served separately, in which case it should be cold.

Tomato Soup

1 quart of stock

1 tea-spoonful sugar

¹⁄₂ a tin of tomatoes

1 onion

1 tea-spoonful butter

Slice the onion. Fry it in the butter. Add it to the tomatoes. Heat them in a sauce-pan, and allow them to simmer for fifteen minutes. Rub through a sieve. Put to the stock. Season and add a lump of sugar. Heat. Serve with croûtons.

Vegetable Soups made without Stock

PAGE

Artichoke Soup

42

Carrot Soup

42

Celery Cream

43

Mock Bisque

44

Portuguese Soup

44

Potato Cream

45

Potato Soup

46

Sorrel Soup

46

Summer Soup

47

Tomato Soup

47

Artichoke Soup

4 artichokes

1 pint water

1 pint milk

1 onion

Boil the artichokes in a pint of water. Mash them. Press them through a sieve, and mix them again with the water in which they were boiled.

Boil an onion in the milk. Remove the onion. Add the milk to the artichokes. Bring to the boil. Season. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).

Carrot Soup

3 large carrots

1 onion

1 quart cold water

2 ozs. of butter

¹⁄₂ a pint milk or cream

1 table-spoon flour

1 tea-spoon powdered sugar

Scrape the carrots and slice them finely, rejecting the hard yellow inside. Put them in a sauce-pan with a quart of cold water. Simmer gently for three quarters of an hour. Slice the onion, and fry it a light brown in the butter. Add it to the carrots, and put all through a fine sieve. Put the purée into a sauce-pan with the water in which the carrots were cooked. Thicken with the flour. Stir continually. Allow it to boil for five minutes. Season. Add a tea-spoonful powdered sugar. Just before serving add half a pint of scalded milk or cream.

Celery Cream

1 head celery

1 pint water

1 pint milk or cream

1 table-spoon chopped onion

2 table-spoons white roux

Wash the celery. Cut it into small pieces. Throw it into one pint boiling salted water. Boil till very tender. Put through a sieve, and return to the water in which it was cooked. Boil the milk with the onion. Strain. Add the milk to the celery. Bring to the boil again. Stir in the white roux (p. 12). Season. Boil five minutes. Strain into soup tureen.

Mock Bisque

¹⁄₂ tin of tomatoes

1 quart milk

2 ozs. butter

1 table-spoon white roux

¹⁄₂ salt-spoon carbonate of soda

Stew the tomatoes until very soft. Add the carbonate of soda and sugar. Put through a fine sieve. Set in a small sauce-pan on the fire to keep hot. Heat the milk, thicken it with white roux (flour and butter, see p. 12). Let it boil a few minutes, stirring continually. Season. Add the tomatoes and serve immediately. (The tomatoes should not be added until actually ready to serve.)

Portuguese Soup

3 tomatoes

1 Spanish onion

A small bunch of herbs

2 large slices of stale bread

1 oz. grated cheese (parmesan)

1 quart hot water

1 oz. butter

Cut up the tomatoes and onions. Fry a light brown in butter. Put them in a stew-pan and cover with a quart of hot water. Let it boil, and then stand aside to simmer for half-an-hour. Strain off the liquid. Rub the vegetables through a coarse sieve. Return to the fire, season, and make very hot. Break up the bread and put it in the bottom of a hot soup tureen. Sprinkle a little of the grated cheese upon it. Pour the soup over it. Sprinkle the rest of the cheese on the soup.

Potato Cream

1 pint milk

1 gill cream

2 potatoes

1 onion

1 tea-cup cooked French beans

1 dessert-spoonful chopped cooked carrot

1 tea-spoon Liebig’s extract

1 small table-spoon white roux

Boil the potatoes and onion. Put them through a sieve. Add them to the milk, which should be boiling. Add the white roux (see p. 12), the Liebig (diluted with a little water) and seasoning. Stir for a minute or two. Cut the French beans into small pieces. Add them and the very finely chopped carrot to the soup. Stir in the scalded cream.

Potato Soup

3 potatoes

1 quart milk

1 table-spoon chopped onion

A little celery or ¹⁄₂ a tea-spoon celery salt

1 table-spoon white roux

1 table-spoon chopped parsley

Peel the potatoes. Soak them in cold water for half-an-hour. Cook them in boiling water until soft. Drain off the water. Put the potatoes through a sieve. Boil the milk with the onion and celery (or celery salt). Strain. Add to the potatoes. Stir in the white roux (see p. 12). Season. Boil for five minutes. Add the parsley.

Sorrel Soup

1 handful of sorrel

1 pint of water

1 tea-cup cream or milk

Bread

Wash and prepare a handful of sorrel. Put it in a sauce-pan with the butter and a pint of water. Season. Boil gently for a quarter of an hour. Add a little cream or milk. Put several very thin slices of bread in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over them.

Rice or tapioca can be added to the soup.

Summer Soup

1 cucumber

2 cabbage lettuces

1 onion

Small handful of spinach

A piece of mint

A pint of shelled peas

2 ozs. butter

A slice of ham

Wash the lettuces and cut them up. Cut up the cucumber and onion. Put them with half a pint of peas, the mint, ham and butter into a stew-pan. Cover with a little more than a quart of cold water. Bring to a boil, and then simmer gently for three hours. Strain off the liquid. Pass the vegetables through a sieve. Add to the liquid. Set on the fire again. Season. Add half a pint of green peas which have already been boiled.

Tomato Soup

1 tin of tomatoes

1 pint boiling water

1 table-spoon sugar

4 cloves

2 pepper-corns

1 table-spoon butter

1      ”      flour

1      ”      chopped onion

1      ”        ”    parsley

Put the tomatoes, water, sugar, cloves and pepper-corns in a porcelain-lined sauce-pot. Simmer for half-an-hour. Fry the onions and parsley in the butter, being careful not to burn. Add the flour to them, mix smooth. Add them to the tomatoes. Simmer for ten minutes. Strain through a fine sieve. Season. Serve with rice (see p. 106) or croûtons (see p. 103).

Soups thickened with a Liaison of Cream and Yolk of Egg

PAGE

Brown Bread Soup

51

Cauliflower Cream

51

Cream of Rice

52

Cucumber Soup

52

Dutch Soup

53

Flemish Soup

53

Friar’s Chicken

54

Italian Macaroni Soup—I

54

Macaroni Soup—II

55

Russian Soup

56

Turkish Soup

56

Water-cress Soup

57

White Chicken Soup

57

White Veal Soup

58

In thickening soups with a liaison of cream (or milk) and yolk of egg, the eggs must first be well beaten, then the cream should be added to them and thoroughly mixed. When this is done take a tea-cup of hot stock and mix it slowly with the liaison. Strain it all through a fine sieve or muslin, and add gradually to the soup, which must on no account be allowed to boil after the liaison is added, although it should be stirred over a gentle fire until it thickens.

In thickening soup with eggs only, beat the required number of eggs, add a little warm stock to them. Strain, and add gradually to the soup.

Brown Bread Soup

1 quart stock

4 or 5 small slices of brown bread

¹⁄₂ head of celery

1 carrot

4 table-spoons glaze

4 yolks of eggs

1 gill sour cream

Toast the brown bread. Add it with the sliced celery and carrot to a rich stock from which all the fat has not been removed. Bring to a boil. Simmer for an hour. Add four table-spoons glaze. Put all through a sieve. Heat gently. Add the liaison of eggs and cream. Serve with croûtons made of brown bread (see p. 103).

This soup can be made with German black bread.

Cauliflower Cream

1 quart chicken stock

1 cup cooked cauliflower

2 yolks of eggs

¹⁄₂ pint cream

1 cup button mushrooms

Put the cauliflower through a fine sieve. Add it to the boiling stock. Season. Add the liaison of cream and egg.

Place the cooked mushrooms at the bottom of a soup tureen. Pour the soup over them.

Cream of Rice with Parmesan

¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice

1 quart chicken stock

1 gill cream

¹⁄₂ oz. Parmesan

2 yolks of eggs

Wash the rice. Boil it for ten minutes in water. Drain. Add to the stock. Simmer until the rice is tender. Put through a fine sieve. Add to the stock. Mix in the cheese. Add the liaison of cream and eggs (see p. 50).

Quenelles of chicken (see p. 105) can be added if desired, or rice balls (see p. 107).

Cucumber Soup

1 cucumber

1¹⁄₂ pints white stock

1 oz. butter

1 onion

Small handful of sorrel

A little chervil

1 gill of cream

2 eggs

Cut the cucumber into thin slices. Sprinkle salt over them. Leave them for an hour. Drain. Put them in a sauce-pan with the butter, the onion, chervil and sorrel finely minced. Add the stock. Season. Simmer for twenty minutes. Add the liaison of cream and eggs and serve.

Dutch Soup

2 carrots

2 turnips

1 cucumber

1 quart chicken or veal broth

Yolks of 3 eggs

1 gill of cream

Tea-spoonful butter

1 gill cooked French beans

1 gill cooked young peas

Cut the carrots, turnips and cucumber into olive-shaped pieces. Blanch for three minutes in boiling water. Add to the stock, and simmer until the vegetables are tender. Take off the fire. Season. Add the yolks and cream and butter (in small pieces). Stir over the fire until the soup thickens.

Put the freshly cooked peas and beans (cut into dice) into the soup tureen. Pour the soup over them.

Flemish Soup

1 quart veal stock

1 handful spinach and sorrel

¹⁄₂ pint cream

3 yolks of eggs

Boil the chopped spinach and sorrel in the stock until tender. Season. Just before serving add the liaison of eggs and cream. Stir continually until it thickens. Serve with croûtons (p. 103).

Friar’s Chicken

1 quart veal stock

1 chicken

3 yolks of eggs

1 pint cream or milk

2 table-spoons chopped parsley

Cut the chicken into joints. Scald and skin them. Add them to the stock. Season. Bring to the boil. Simmer gently for an hour. Skim from time to time. Strain. Add the liaison of egg and cream, and the parsley.

Italian Macaroni Soup—I

5 ozs. macaroni

2 ozs. butter

1 quart white stock

¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk

3 yolks of eggs

1 oz. grated Parmesan

Cut the macaroni in boiling water, adding butter, salt and pepper. Boil for half-an-hour. Drain. Cut in half-inch lengths.

Heat the white stock. Add the macaroni to it. Simmer another half-hour. Add liaison of eggs and cream (or milk) and the grated cheese.

Macaroni Soup—II

¹⁄₂ lb. macaroni

A little more than 1 quart chicken stock

About 30 forcemeat balls

4 yolks of eggs

1 gill of cream

Boil the macaroni for ten minutes in cold water. Drain it. Cut it in finger-lengths. Cook it again for fifteen minutes in a little clear chicken stock. In a hot dish lay first a layer of macaroni, then one of small chicken forcemeat balls (see p. 104), then another layer of macaroni, etc.

Heat a quart of clear chicken stock to boiling point. Add a liaison of the yolks of four eggs and a gill of cream. Strain. Serve in a soup tureen with the dish of macaroni and forcemeat balls.

Russian Soup

2 kidneys

2 small onions

¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms

1 dozen small olives

3 gherkins

1 quart strong stock

Yolks of two eggs

Melt the butter and fry the kidneys and onions (finely cut up) in it very gently for five minutes. Cook the mushrooms separately. Put the kidneys, onions, mushrooms, olives and gherkins (finely sliced) in a hot soup tureen. Pour over them a quart of rich, dark, well-seasoned brown stock, which has been thickened with the yolks of two eggs.

Turkish Soup

1 quart of veal or beef stock

¹⁄₂ a tea-cup of rice

2 yolks of eggs

1 table-spoon cream

Boil the rice and stock together until the rice is tender. Press through a sieve. Season. Add the yolks and cream. Serve with croûtons.

Water-cress Soup

3 potatoes

1 handful chopped water-cress

1 quart stock (or water)

2 yolks of eggs

1 table-spoon cream

1 oz. butter

1 tea-spoon white roux

Peel and wash the potatoes. Cook them in a little stock. When tender mash them and put through a sieve. Add them to the rest of the stock. Put back on the fire. Heat gently. Add a tea-spoonful of white roux (see p. 12). Add the butter in small pieces.

Make a liaison of the eggs and cream. Stir into the soup. Add the water-cress uncooked. Serve at once, before the water-cress becomes limp.

White Chicken Soup

The water in which a fowl has been boiled

The carcase and bones of the fowl

1 pint milk or cream

1 table-spoon chopped onion

2 table-spoons  ”    celery

Yolks of two eggs

1 gill chopped and cooked carrot and green peas

Add the bones and carcase of the fowl, the onion, celery and seasoning to the water in which a fowl has been boiled. Simmer till reduced to one quart. Strain and thicken with a white roux of butter and flour. Add the liaison of cream (or milk) and eggs.

Put the cooked carrot and peas in the soup tureen, and pour the soup over them.

White Veal Soup

2 lbs. knuckle of veal

1 quart water

1 onion

Half pint of milk or cream

2 yolks of eggs

1 table-spoon butter

1      ”      flour

Wipe the veal and cut it into small pieces. Cover with cold water and heat slowly, skimming constantly. Season with salt, three or four pepper-corns, and a chopped onion. Simmer for three hours until reduced by half. Strain. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat. Put in the stew-pan again, and when boiling thicken with white roux made of table-spoon butter and a level table-spoon of flour (see p. 12). Add a half pint of milk and eggs. Season again. Serve with fried bread.

Vegetable Purées

PAGE

Purée of Asparagus

61

”    Black Beans

62

”    Broad Beans

63

”    Carrots

63

”    Endive

64

”    Green Peas—I

65

”    Green Peas—II

65

”    Italian Dried Green Peas

66

”    Lentils

67

”    Onions

68

”    Rice

68

”    Turnips

69

”    Winter Vegetables

69

When passing vegetables or meat through a tammy or fine sieve, it will be easier if they are kept continually moistened with a little of the stock or milk with which the purée is to be made.

Purées having been passed through the sieve or tammy, can, if not required at once, be set aside until wanted. But a purée that has reached this point must on no account be re-heated or have milk or cream added to it until just before it is to be served. When re-heating, if a meat purée, it should not be allowed to boil, or even be made hotter than is absolutely necessary.

Allow all vegetable purées to boil up quickly for several minutes after the purée and stock have been mixed. This will clarify them. All scum should be carefully removed. When this is done, the butter and milk or cream can be added.

A little white or brown roux well mixed with purées a minute or two before serving will prevent the actual purée from separating from the stock.

Purée of Asparagus

1 bundle of asparagus

1 handful spinach

1 small onion

1 quart white stock

¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream

1 oz. butter

Break off all that is tender of each piece of asparagus. Scrape and wash them. Leave them in cold water for half-an-hour. Drain them. Put them in a sauce pan with a handful of spinach and a small onion. When tender take all out and drain again. Add to them a quart of white stock. Season. Boil gently for ten minutes. Put through a tammy. Heat slowly again, season and add the butter and scalded cream. This soup may be deepened in colour by adding a little spinach colouring (p. 104). Serve with croûtons (p. 103).

Purée of Black Beans

¹⁄₂ pint black beaus

1 quart water

1 carrot (grated)

1 onion

¹⁄₂ head celery

1 table-spoon butter

1      ”      brown roux

2 ozs. raw ham or salt pork

2 cloves

1 bouquet herbs

1 lemon

2 hard-boiled eggs

1 glass sherry

Soak the beans over night. Drain. Put them in a sauce-pan with one quart cold water, and the ham or pork, the celery, grated carrot, herbs and cloves pounded. Slice the onion. Fry it in the butter. Add it to the beans, etc. Simmer for four or five hours. As the water boils away add cold water to keep it to the same quantity. Put through a sieve. Return to the fire. Season with salt, pepper, and a little mustard. Stir in a table-spoonful of brown roux (see p. 13). Just before serving add the juice of half a lemon and a glass of sherry.

Slice the hard-boiled eggs and half a lemon and put in the soup tureen. Pour the soup over it. Force-meat balls (p. 104) also may be served with this purée.

Purée of Broad Beans

1 pint of beans

1 slice of bacon or salt pork

2 sprigs of parsley

3 small onions and one clove

¹⁄₂ head of celery

1 quart water or stock

¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream

1 table-spoon butter

1      ”      flour

Boil the beans, one onion, parsley, celery and clove, in one quart of water or stock, until tender. Rub through a sieve into a basin, and set aside.

Slice and boil two onions until tender. Drain them. Melt the butter in a sauce-pan. Add the onions and a little nutmeg and fry until a good brown, stirring in the flour and mixing it smooth. Add the boiling milk. Boil for several minutes, stirring all the time. Press through a sieve, and add to the purée of beans. Season. Heat gently. Serve with croûtons.

Purée of Carrots

2 large carrots

1  ”  onion

1  ”  turnip

1 quart beef stock

Scrape the carrots, and slice them finely, using the red outside part only. Slice the other vegetables. Put all together in a sauce-pan with the stock. Cook until tender. Rub through a sieve. Return to the fire. Season and add a small lump of sugar. Serve with croûtons.

Purée of Endive

3 large endives

1¹⁄₂ pints chicken stock

1 table-spoon white roux

¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk

2 ozs. butter

Discard all but the white hearts of the endives. Wash them thoroughly, and boil them in salt water for ten minutes. Drain them and put them to stew very gently for quarter of an hour with the butter, stirring continually. Then add half a pint of white chicken stock, and simmer for an hour. Pass through a tammy. Return to the fire and add a pint more stock. Let it boil up. Season. Add the white roux (p. 12), butter and the boiling cream. Colour with spinach colouring (see p. 104).

Purée of Green Peas—I

1 pint of green peas

1 turnip

1 small onion

1 piece of mint

1 oz. of butter

1 quart brown stock

Stew the vegetables with the butter, one pint of stock, and a little celery seed, until they are quite tender. Rub them through a fine sieve or tammy. Return to the fire. Add the rest of the stock. Season, and add a lump of sugar and spinach colouring (see p. 104).

Whenever possible, use half a head of celery finely chopped, instead of the celery seed.

Purée of Green Peas—II

1 pint of peas

2 small onions

1 cabbage lettuce

1 bouquet herbs

1 quart stock

1 table-spoon white roux

1 gill cream

Stew the peas, onion (sliced), lettuce and a bouquet of herbs in the butter very gently for ten minutes. Add to them the hot stock. Bring to the boil. Simmer for half-an-hour. Pass through a tammy. Re-heat gently. Season. Stir in the roux (p. 12) and a gill of cream. Serve with croûtons, or add to the soup some young cooked peas.

Purée of Italian Dried Green Peas

¹⁄₂ pint of peas

¹⁄₂ head of celery

1¹⁄₂ pints of stock or water

¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk

1 table-spoon butter

Soak the peas over night. Put them and the celery, chopped, on to boil with the water or stock. Boil till very tender. Put through a hair sieve or tammy. Put back on the fire and heat gently. Season. Colour with spinach colouring. Just before serving add the butter, in small pieces, and, when it has melted, the boiling cream. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).

Purée of Lentils

1 pint of lentils

1 head of celery

1 onion

1 turnip

1 carrot

1 slice of ham

3 pints stock or water

1 gill of cream

Soak the lentils in water over night. Let the vegetables (which should be cut up) and the ham stew gently in the butter for ten minutes. Strain the lentils from the water they have soaked in. Put them with the ham, vegetables and stock into a sauce-pan. Bring to the boil and simmer for two hours. Strain off the liquid. Pound and mash the lentils, etc., and pass them through a sieve. Return them to the liquid. Boil up again. Add a tea-spoonful of powdered sugar, seasoning and the cream, scalded. Serve with fried bread (see p. 103).

Purée of Onions

6 onions

1 small turnip

¹⁄₂ head celery

1 quart white stock

2 ozs. butter

¹⁄₂ pint cream or milk

12 button onions

Cook the large onions, turnip, celery and butter with the stock until very tender. At the same time prepare and boil the button onions until soft. Put the vegetables and stock through a fine sieve. Return to the fire. Add the cream or milk, scalded, and the button onions. Season.

Purée of Rice

4 table-spoons rice

1 pint stock

1 pint milk or cream

1 onion

1 carrot (grated)

Bay leaf

¹⁄₂ cup fine bread crumbs

1 oz. butter

Wash and parboil the rice. Add it to the stock with a grated carrot, the sliced onion (which should have been fried a light brown in the butter), and the bread crumbs. Simmer for half-an-hour. Pass through a fine sieve. Return to the fire. Add the scalded milk or cream, and season. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).

Purée of Turnip

4 turnips (preferably yellow)

1 large onion

1 carrot

1 piece of celery

4 ozs. butter

1¹⁄₂ pints stock or water

¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream

Slice the vegetables finely and stew them in the butter. Add half a pint of the stock hot and simmer until the vegetables are very tender. Put through a sieve. Add the rest of the stock. Heat. Season. Just before serving add the scalded milk or cream.

Purée of Winter Vegetables

1 onion

1 carrot

1 large turnip

¹⁄₂ small cabbage

¹⁄₂ head of celery

¹⁄₂ pint of stewed tomatoes

1 quart of water or stock

Bouquet of sweet herb

Table-spoon butter

1 gill cream or milk

Chop all the vegetables but the cabbage and tomatoes very fine. Put them in a sauce-pan with the water or stock and boil. Cook the cabbage separately. When the vegetables are tender, add the cabbage. Simmer ten minutes. Add the tomatoes and a bouquet of herbs. Boil for quarter of an hour. Rub through a sieve. Return to the fire. Season. Add the butter and the cream.

Meat Purées

PAGE

Purée of Fowl à la Reine

73

” ” à la Reine Margot

73

” Hare

74

” Pheasant

75

” Rabbit

75

Whenever a piece of meat or fowl is added to a soup, it must be added as late as possible, and the soup must not be allowed to boil after it has been added, or even made very hot. If it boils the purée will curdle. Should it by accident do so, it is possible to remedy it by adding a little more stock to the soup, putting it all through a tammy again, and then warming it gently.

Purée of Fowl à la Reine

1 large tender fowl

¹⁄₄ lb. boiled rice

1¹⁄₂ pints water

¹⁄₂ pint cream

Roast the fowl. Cut off all the meat from it. Chop it and pound it. Break the bones and carcase of the fowl. Put them and the skin in a sauce-pan with the water. Bring to a boil and simmer for an hour or two. Skim and strain. Add it to the pounded meat. Pass through a tammy. Add the scalded cream. Season.

Purée of Fowl à la Reine Margot

1 fowl

1 quart water

¹⁄₂ pint cream

3 ozs. pounded almonds

1 tea-cup bread crumbs

Boil the fowl in a quart of water. When the fowl is tender, take it out and set it aside. Skim the broth and pour it into a basin. Cut all the meat off the fowl. Chop it very fine and pound it. Add to it the bread crumbs (which must be very finely grated), and the pounded almonds. Put all through a tammy and add to the broth. Season. Add the boiling cream. The yolks of three eggs can also be added if desired (see p. 50).

Purée of Hare

1 small hare

1 quart water or consommé

1 small bouquet of herbs

2 ozs. butter

2 ozs. boiled rice

¹⁄₂ pint Sauterne

Skin and clean the hare. Cut it up into small pieces. Melt the butter in a large sauce-pan. Add the pieces of hare to it with a small bouquet of herbs. Fry them a good brown colour. Add the water or stock. Bring to the boil. Simmer an hour-and-a-half. Strain off the broth. Cut off all the meat from the hare. Chop and pound it. Add the rice. Dilute with the broth and pass through a tammy. Heat the purée gently when required, adding the Sauterne. Season. Serve with fried croûtons.

Purée of Pheasants

1 pheasant

1 quart stock

3 ozs. boiled rice

1 table-spoon glaze

Roast the pheasant until it is thoroughly done. Cut off all the meat. Set aside the white meat. Put the rest with the bones and stock into a sauce-pan. Bring to the boil and simmer for an hour. Chop and pound the meat. Add the rice to it. Dilute with the strained stock. Pass through a tammy. Add the table-spoonful of glaze (see p. 14). Serve with croûtons.

Purée of Rabbit

1 rabbit

1¹⁄₂ pints water

2 ozs. barley or rice (well boiled)

¹⁄₂ pint cream

1 table-spoon brown roux

Roast the rabbit, seasoning it with salt, pepper and nutmeg. When it is done, cut off all the meat. Put the bones with the water to make a stock and simmer an hour or two. Skim and strain. Chop the meat and pound it. When the stock is ready, put it with the meat and barley or rice through a tammy. When ready to serve, heat the purée gently, and add the roux (see p. 12). Season, and add half a pint of scalded cream. Quenelles of rabbit may be served with this purée (see p. 105).

Bisques

PAGE

Crab Bisque

78

Lobster Bisque

78

Oyster Bisque

79

Crab Bisque

1 large crab

1¹⁄₂ pints white stock

Bread crumbs or rice

2 yolks of hard-boiled eggs

¹⁄₂ pint cream

1 glass white wine (Sauterne or Rhenish)

Take out all the meat, setting that from the claws aside. Pound the rest of the meat with the pulpy part. Add to it about half its weight in fine bread crumbs or boiled rice, and the yolks. Dilute with the stock. Rub through a tammy. Heat very gently, taking care that it does not boil. Season with salt and cayenne. Add half a pint of boiling cream, and, if desired, a glass of white wine, and the shredded meat from the claws.

Lobster Bisque

1 hen-lobster

1¹⁄₂ pints white stock

¹⁄₂ head of celery

2 ozs. butter

¹⁄₂ pint cream or white wine (Sauterne or Rhenish)

Remove the meat from a hen-lobster. Set aside the coral and dry it. Cut up the meat into very fine shreds and fry them for five minutes in the butter, with the chopped celery and pepper and salt. Add the stock and boil for half-an-hour. Drain off the stock. Pound the meat and pass it through a tammy. When required, return the stock and purée to the fire. Heat gently and stir continually, stir in the coral which should have been rubbed through a very fine sieve when dry. Season and add a few drops of lemon juice, the scalded cream or half a pint of hot white wine. Do not allow the bisque to boil.

Oyster Bisque

1 pint oysters

1 pint stock

1 pint milk

1 gill cream

1 blade mace

Nutmeg

4 ozs. butter

Boil the oysters gently for quarter of an hour in the stock, adding to it one ounce of butter and the spices. Take off the fire and drain. Set aside the stock. Chop the oysters very fine. Melt two ounces of butter and add them to it. Stir in the flour gradually and smoothly. Add the stock, and a pint of milk. Boil for ten minutes, stirring continually. Rub through a tammy. Return to the fire. Add a gill of boiling cream and an ounce of butter in small pieces. Stir the bisque until it is melted, but do not allow it to boil. Season. Serve with croûtons (see p. 103).

Fish Soups

PAGE

Bouillabaisse

82

Fish Soup

83

Oyster Soup

84

Salmon Soup

84

Bouillabaisse

About 3 lbs. of fish

2 onions

2 table-spoons of olive oil

¹⁄₂ a lemon

2 small tomatoes

1 glass white wine

1 laurel leaf

4 pepper corns

1 table-spoon chopped parsley

Bread

Wash the fish and cut it across in slices of different sizes. Take a large iron sauce-pan, fry the onions with olive oil in it. When they are coloured a good brown add the fish to the sauce-pan and just cover it with warm water. Add also a laurel leaf, the inside of half a lemon (from which the pips have been removed), two small tomatoes (peeled and the seeds taken out) cut in dice and a glass of light white wine, the pepper-corns and salt. Make up a big fire. Set the sauce-pan on it and let the contents boil violently for twelve to fifteen minutes. Then add a table-spoon of chopped parsley. Let it continue boiling for a minute.

In a warmed soup tureen put a number of slices of roll or bread. Pour the liquid over them. See that they become thoroughly soaked with it. Add the best of the fish and serve.

The best fish to use for Bouillabaisse are cod, whiting, mullet, sole, turbot and langouste. It is absolutely essential that all the fish used should be perfectly fresh.

In France 4 cloves of garlic would be added with the tomatoes, but this is optional.

Fish Soup

1 lb. cod or halibut

1 quart milk

1 sliced onion

1 table-spoon white roux

Cook the fish in boiling salted water until it flakes easily. Drain it. Take away the bones and skin and rub the fish through a sieve. Put the sliced onion in the milk and boil for ten minutes. Remove the onion. Add the white roux (see p. 12) to the milk. Stir till well mixed. Add the fish. Season.

Oyster Soup

1 pint oysters

¹⁄₂ pint water

1 pint milk

1 gill thick cream

1 table-spoon white roux

Cover the oysters with the cold water. After a little while remove them. Strain the liquor. Put it on to boil and skim. When clear add the oysters. Let them simmer until their edges ruffle and their bodies grow plump. (This should take about five minutes.) Take out the oysters, set them where they will keep warm. Add the liquor to the milk, which should be boiling. Add the roux (see p. 12) and seasoning. Simmer five minutes. Add the boiling cream. Add the oysters.

Salmon Soup

¹⁄₂ lb. salmon

1 quart white stock

2 anchovies

¹⁄₂ head of celery

A piece of parsley

1 clove

1 gill cream

1 table-spoon white roux

Let half a pound of the salmon stew gently with the chopped anchovies, in two ounces of butter, for twenty minutes, being very careful that it does not brown. Add the stock, the celery, cut fine, parsley, spice and herbs. Bring to the boil. Add the white roux (p. 12). Simmer for an hour-and-a-half. Put through a tammy. Return to the fire. Add the boiling cream. Season and serve at once.

Broths

PAGE

Barley Broth

87

Chicken Broth

87

Cockie Leekie

88

Game Broth

89

Hotch Potch

90

Potato Broth

90

Scotch Broth

91

Sheep’s Head Broth

92

Barley Broth

2 lbs. lean mutton

¹⁄₄ lb. barley

2 turnips

2 carrots

1 leek or onion

2 table-spoons chopped parsley

2 quarts of water

Trim the mutton and cut it into small dice-shaped pieces. Put it with the barley in a sauce-pan. Cover with the water. Bring to a boil. Simmer for two hours, skimming from time to time. Add the vegetables, which should be finely chopped, and the parsley. Season. Simmer for forty minutes.

Chicken Broth

1 chicken

1 quart cold water

1 onion

2 table-spoons of rice

Clean the chicken. Separate it into joints, removing all skin and fat. Put it into a sauce-pan and cover with the cold water. Add the onion sliced. Simmer until the chicken is tender. Remove the breast of the chicken from the sauce-pan. Let the rest continue to simmer until the meat comes clean away from the bones. Strain off the broth. Remove the fat. Take two table-spoonfuls of rice which has already been washed and soaked for half-an-hour. Put the broth on the fire again. Add to it the rice. Season. Add the breast of the chicken cut in small pieces. Simmer until the rice is tender. A cup of scalded cream can be added just before serving.

Cockie Leekie

1 fowl

2 lbs. shin of beef or knuckle of veal

2 quarts of water

12 leeks

Skin the fowl and cut it into joints. Put it in a stew-pan with the meat (which should not be cut up) and cover with the water. Bring to a boil. Let it simmer for two hours. Skim. Cut off the coarser part of the leeks, and cut the best parts into pieces about an inch long. (The leeks are improved by being soaked in water for two hours before using.) Add to the soup. Simmer for half-an-hour. Take out the meat and fowl. Cut the breast of the fowl into small pieces and return to the soup. Season.

A tea-cupful of boiled rice can be added if wished.

Game Broth

Two or three birds (any kind of game)

2 quarts of cold water

1 whole carrot

1 whole turnip

¹⁄₂ tea-cup chopped white cabbage

3 potatoes sliced

1 dozen small onions

1 head of celery

Cut the game into small pieces, cover with two quarts of cold water. Add an onion, two carrots, a turnip and several pieces of celery. Bring to a boil. Simmer very gently for four hours. Strain off the broth. Choose the best pieces of meat from the game, cut them up into neat pieces. Add to the broth. Put back on the fire, and add a head of celery very finely sliced, a dozen small onions, and three large potatoes cut in slices. Simmer gently for about three quarters of an hour. Add the cooked chopped cabbage, and simmer another five minutes.

Hotch Potch

2 lbs. lean mutton from the neck

2 quarts cold water

1 large carrot

1 turnip

2 onions

1 cabbage

1 small cauliflower

¹⁄₂ pint of shelled peas

Cut the mutton into dice-shaped pieces, removing the fat and skin. Put it in a sauce-pan with the water and bring to the boil. Let it simmer gently for two hours. Skim. Season. Add all the vegetables, finely chopped, except the cabbage (of which the heart only should be used and which should be cooked separately). Simmer two or three hours. Add the cabbage.

Potato Broth

The water in which a joint of mutton has been boiled

1 oz. ham

1 oz. butter

1 small onion

3 large potatoes

Reduce the water to one quart. Strain, and remove the fat.

Chop one ounce of lean ham very fine. Melt an ounce of butter in a sauce-pan, and in it fry the ham and a small sliced onion until a rich brown. Add this to the broth and simmer thirty minutes. Strain. Season.

Pare and slice three large potatoes. Add to the broth. Bring to the boil. Simmer for forty minutes.

Scotch Broth

2 lbs. scrag end neck of mutton

1 lb. best end    ”        ”

2 quarts water

2 carrots

2 turnips

3 small onions or 2 leeks

Small head of celery

1 table-spoon chopped parsley

3 table-spoons barley which has been soaked several hours

Soak the scrag end in cold water for an hour. Remove the skin very carefully and part of the fat. Put on to boil with two quarts of cold water. When it boils skim it. Set back to simmer for two hours. Strain. Put the strained broth into a sauce-pan. Add to it the best end of the neck, either in cutlets or using the meat only (cut in neat pieces) and the barley. Bring to the boil. Simmer two hours. Skim. Add the vegetables cut into small dice-shaped pieces. Season. Simmer till vegetables are tender. Add parsley.

Sheep’s Head Broth

1 sheep’s head

1 tea-cup pearl barley

2 quarts cold water

3 onions and two cloves

1 turnip

1 carrot

Bouquet of herbs

Glass of white wine

Mushroom ketchup

Remove the brains from a sheep’s head, and clean it. Leave the head in water over night. The next day put the head in a sauce-pan with the water and barley. Bring to a boil. Throw in a little cold water. Skim. Simmer for an hour, stirring from time to time. Add the vegetables, cut up finely, and herbs. Simmer three or four hours until head is tender. Strain off the broth from the head. Put the vegetables through a sieve and add to the broth. Let it stand till cold. Remove the fat. Take the best of the meat from the head. Cut it into small pieces. Put them with the broth in a sauce-pan. Heat gently. Add a wine-glass of white wine and a little mushroom ketchup just before serving.

Broths and Soups for Invalids

PAGE

Beef Essence

95

Beef Tea—I

95

Beef Tea—II

96

” ” —III

96

Calves’ Foot Broth

97

Chicken Broth

98

” Custard

98

” Panada

99

Game Panada

99

Chicken Tea

100

Mutton Broth

100

Veal Broth

101

It is essential in making invalid soups that the meat used should be uncooked and very good.

For beef tea use steak or shin of beef.

Every piece of skin, membrane and fat should be carefully removed from the meat to be used.

Vegetables, spice and seasoning should not be used unless permitted by the doctor.

When soup has to be made quickly a little time can be saved by removing the fat from it while it is still hot (see p. 3).

Beef Essence

Cut up a lean piece of juicy rump steak into small pieces. Put these into a closely covered jar without any water. Stand the jar in a large sauce-pan containing cold water. Heat slowly and keep just below boiling point. When the meat in the jar is white, it is done. This should be in about two hours. Strain off the juice, pressing the meat while doing so in order that none may be left in it. Season with a little salt.

OR,

Place the meat in a closely covered jar in a moderate oven, leaving it there for three hours. Strain as above.

In both cases the essence should be kept in a cold place. It must not be boiled when it is heated. It can be made into beef tea by adding boiling water to it.

Beef Tea—I

1 lb. very juicy rump steak or shin of beef

1 cup cold water

Cut the meat into very small pieces. Put these in a bowl and cover with a cup of cold water. Cover the basin and leave for three or four hours. Then, squeezing the meat firmly, drain off all the liquid. Strain this, add a little salt, and when required heat very gently. It is best to do this in a bain marie, as it curdles easily (see p. 110).

Add another cup of cold water to the meat, and proceed as for the first cup.

Beef Tea—II

1 lb. steak or shin of beef

2 pints water

Cut the meat, which must be lean and juicy, into small pieces. Put them into a stew-pan and cover with a quart of water. Heat very gently. Skim whenever necessary. Simmer for a little more than an hour. Strain through muslin into a basin. Let it stand until cool. Remove the fat. Pour off the clear beef tea very gently from the dregs.

Beef Tea—III

4 lbs. of steak or shin of beef

2 lbs. bones

2 quarts cold water

Break and crush the bones. Cut the meat into small pieces. Put into a stew-pan and cover with the cold water. Heat very slowly. Simmer for three hours. Add a little salt. Strain into a basin. Allow it to cool. Remove any fat very carefully. Pour off the clear liquid carefully from the dregs.

If allowed, a little carrot and celery may be cooked with the beef tea.

Calves’ Foot Broth (or Jelly)

2 calves’ feet

2 quarts cold water

2 table-spoons sugar

Juice of half a lemon

Glass of good white wine

Scald and clean the feet. Split and break them. Put into a stew-pan and cover with two quarts of cold water. Heat very slowly and simmer until reduced to about a pint and a half. Strain. When cold remove the fat. Add sugar and lemon juice. Return to the fire. Let it boil for five minutes, stirring continually. Skim thoroughly. Add the wine. Strain through a jelly bag, and keep in a cold place.

In making broth, the wine may be omitted, and in its place the beaten yolk of an egg added. In which case it will only be necessary to strain it instead of passing it through a jelly bag. Sago or tapioca, which has been boiled till tender, should be added.

Chicken Broth

One chicken

1 quart of cold water

Juice of a lemon

Boiled rice or vermicelli

Cut up a chicken into small pieces. Remove the meat from the bones as much as possible. Crush the bones. Cover meat and bones with a quart of water. Heat very slowly. Simmer until perfectly tender. When tender strain off the liquid. Let it get cool. Remove the fat. Heat again, adding a little salt and a few drops of lemon juice. Allow the broth to boil for five minutes. Strain through a napkin. Add a little well boiled rice or vermicelli, and a little of the white meat of the chicken cut in dice.

Chicken Custard

1 chicken

3 pints of cold water

2 yolks of eggs

Clean, skin and cut up a young chicken. Put it into a stew-pan with about three pints of cold water. Heat very slowly. Skim carefully when it boils. Allow it to simmer for an hour. Strain off the liquid through a napkin.

To each half pint of broth add the yolks of two eggs. Put in a double boiler and stir until it thickens (see p. 50). Serve at once.

Chicken Panada

1 chicken

1 French roll

1 quart cold water

Skin a chicken and boil it gently until tender. Remove it from the liquid and let it cool. Then cut off the white meat, pound it in a mortar. Mix with it the crumb of a French roll that has been soaked in broth. Add a little of the broth the chicken was boiled in. Pass through a tammy. Dilute with broth. Salt. Heat gently, but do not allow it to boil.

A table-spoon of well-boiled rice may be substituted for the crumb of a French roll.

Game Panada

Game panada is made in exactly the same way as chicken panada, substituting a pheasant, or a couple of partridges, for the chicken.

Chicken Tea

1 chicken

1 quart cold water

Skin a chicken and divide it into pieces. Put in a stew-pan and cover with one quart of water. Simmer gently for a full hour. Strain. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat. Serve hot or cold.

Mutton Broth

1 lb. lean mutton

1 pint cold water

2 table-spoons boiled rice

Chop the mutton very fine. Put it in a stew-pan with one pint of cold water. Put it in a basin and cover it with the water. Cover the basin. Let it stand for an hour. Then heat very gently. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Strain. Remove the fat. Add the well-boiled rice.

Veal Broth

A knuckle of veal

A chicken

2 quarts of water

2 table-spoons well-boiled rice

Put a knuckle of veal and a chicken (an old one will do) into a large stew-pan. Cover with two quarts of water. Let it boil up gently. Skim. Simmer for three hours. Strain through a napkin. Allow it to cool. Remove the fat. Serve with a little boiled rice.

Accessories

PAGE

Croûtons

104

Custards

104

Force-meat Balls

105

Green Colouring

105

Potato Balls

106

Quenelles of Chicken, Game, Hare, Rabbit

106

Quenelles of Marrow

107

Rice

107

Rice (savoury)

108

Rice Balls

108

Croûtons

Several slices of stale bread

1 oz. of butter

Cut off the crust and cut the bread into small dice-shaped pieces. Fry them in the butter. Drain them on a sieve. Before serving, put them for a few minutes in a quick oven.

Custards for Clear Soup

4 yolks of eggs

1 gill consommé or water

Beat the yolks in a basin, stir in the consommé or water. Add a little salt. Strain through a hair sieve into a shallow mould. Steam it until well set. Let it become quite cold. Put out on a wet cloth. Cut in squares or fancy shapes. Part of the custard may be coloured green with spinach colouring.

Force-meat Balls

1 cup of meat of any kind

1 tea-spoon finely chopped parsley

1 salt-spoon thyme

1 tea-spoon lemon juice

1 yolk of egg (raw)

1 table-spoon flour

1      ”      butter

Chop the meat very fine, season it highly, and add the lemon juice, thyme and parsley. Moisten with the yolk of egg. Roll into small balls. Flour them well. Melt the butter in a shallow pan. When it is brown add the balls. Fry until brown.

Green Colouring

Pound some spinach in a mortar and put it through a hair sieve. Put the juice in a sauce-pan and boil it until it curdles. Put through a very fine sieve. Bottle.

Potato Balls

(For Potato or Clear Soups)

2 potatoes

1 oz. butter

1 table-spoon thick cream

1 egg

Boil the potatoes. Rub them through a sieve. Put them in a sauce-pan with the butter and cream. Season. Stir over a good fire until of a stiff consistency. Remove from the fire and put in a basin. Add the yolk of an egg and the beaten white. Form into small balls. Drop into boiling water. Boil two or three minutes.

Quenelles of Chicken, Game, Hare or Rabbit

4 ozs. meat

2 ozs. bread-crumbs

2 ozs. butter

1 whole egg and 1 extra yolk

Chop and pound the meat. Soak the bread-crumbs in a little milk or broth. Mix all thoroughly together. Season. Pass through a sieve. Form into balls. Drop into boiling water or broth and simmer for three minutes.

The best meat should always be reserved for making quenelles.

Quenelles of Marrow

4 ozs. marrow

4 ozs. fine bread-crumbs

1 egg

¹⁄₂ tea-spoonful finely-chopped parsley

Mix all the ingredients thoroughly. Season. Roll in the hand in small balls. Boil in a little broth for fifteen minutes.

Rice

1 cup of Carolina rice

2 quarts boiling water

1 table-spoon salt

Wash a cup of rice thoroughly. Drain it. Throw it into a large sauce-pan of salted boiling water and let it boil as fast as possible for twenty minutes. Do not stir. Drain. Put into cold water for ten minutes. Drain again. When required warm it by steaming, or set it in the oven, leaving the door open.

Savoury Rice

(To serve with Clear Soup)

Prepare the rice as above. Add to it one cup of rich stock which has been highly seasoned. Steam to warm. Add a table-spoon of butter just before serving.

OR,

Add a table-spoon of chopped onion which has been fried a rich yellow in a table-spoon of butter, to the cooked rice. Moisten with a cup of stock and steam for ten minutes.

Rice Balls

(For Cream of Rice or Clear Soups)

¹⁄₄ lb. Carolina rice

1 oz. butter

1 oz. grated Parmesan

2 yolks of eggs

1 whole egg

Boil the rice until quite soft. Drain it. Put it in a sauce-pan with the butter, cheese and yolks. Stir continually for five minutes. Season. Take off the fire. Turn out of the sauce-pan to cool. When cold, make into small balls. Beat the whole egg. Roll the balls first in a little flour, then in the egg. Fry in very hot lard till a rich yellow.

Sauces

There is, of course, no end to sauces, and in a book of this size it is impossible to do justice to their variety. Enough are, however, I hope, given in the pages that follow for ordinary needs.

It is of the highest importance in making sauces that the materials used should be of the best. Fresh butter and the finest olive oil should be used.

When adding the yolks of eggs to sauces it is best to do so in a bain marie (i.e. to stand the sauce-pan in which the sauce is being made, inside a larger one full of boiling water), as they must never be allowed to boil, and a quick fire easily burns them.

For thickening sauces, etc., see remarks on soup on p. 12.

Hot Sauces for Fish

PAGE

Black Butter

112

Dutch Sauce

112

Genoese Sauce

113

Italian Sauce

113

Maître d’Hotel Sauce

114

Melted Butter

114

Anchovy Sauce

114

Cucumber Sauce

114

Egg Sauce

114

Shrimp Sauce

114

Oyster Sauce

115

Sauce Hollandaise

115

Black Butter

(For Skate, grilled Mackerel)

1 gill vinegar

4 ozs. butter

Several small parsley leaves

Small piece of bay leaf

Boil the vinegar with the bay leaf until it is considerably reduced.

Heat the butter in a pan until it becomes brown. Add the parsley leaves. Let them fry for a moment. Skim the butter.

Remove the bay leaf from the vinegar. Add a little salt and pepper. Pour the butter and parsley leaves into it. Mix and serve.

Dutch Sauce

Butter, size of an egg

1 tea-spoon flour

¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream

Juice of half a lemon

2 yolks of eggs

Melt the butter in a sauce-pan. Stir in the flour and mix till perfectly smooth. Add the milk or cream. Boil for two or three minutes. Add lemon juice, and just before serving, stir in the two yolks. After which do not allow the sauce to boil.

Genoese Sauce

(For Fillet of Sole)

1 oz. butter

2 table-spoons olive oil

2 yolks of eggs

1 table-spoon vinegar

Put the oil and butter into a sauce-pan on the fire and stir till the butter is melted. Beat the yolks slightly. Add the vinegar to them. Season. Directly the butter is melted add the yolks and vinegar, stirring continually over a bain marie until the sauce thickens. Half a tea-spoonful of mustard may be added.

Italian Sauce

(For Mackerel, etc.)

2 table-spoons olive oil

1 oz. butter

6 chopped mushrooms

1 shallot, finely chopped

1 tea-spoon chopped parsley

1 clove

1 wine-glass white wine

10 drops Liebig’s extract of meat

Put the butter and oil into a sauce-pan. Add the mushrooms, shallot, parsley and the clove. Cook for a few minutes. Add the wine and Liebig. Simmer gently for forty minutes. Season. Pass through a sieve.

Maître d’Hotel

4 ozs. butter

¹⁄₂ pint milk

1 tea-spoon flour

1 dessert-spoon finely chopped parsley

Juice of a lemon

Mix the flour and butter together till smooth. Melt in a sauce-pan. Add the boiling milk. Let all boil for three or four minutes, stirring constantly. Add the parsley and lemon juice.

Melted Butter

1 tea-spoon flour

4 ozs. butter

1 gill boiling milk or water

Mix the flour and butter thoroughly in a basin. When perfectly smooth put in a sauce-pan. Add to it the boiling milk or water. Let it boil for two or three minutes. Stir continually from left to right. Season.

To this sauce the raw yolk of an egg or a finely chopped hard boiled egg, shrimps, a little essence of anchovy, or a table spoon of grated cucumber may be added; when it becomes egg, shrimp, anchovy or cucumber sauce. To the cucumber sauce add a tea-spoonful of lemon juice.

Oyster Sauce

2 doz. oysters

3 ozs. butter

1 tea-spoon flour

¹⁄₂ pint cream

1 coffee-spoon lemon juice

Prepare the oysters and stew them in their own juice and the butter until plump and tender. Mix the flour with the cream, until perfectly smooth. Bring to the boil and let it boil two or three minutes. Add it to the oysters, etc. Stir quickly together. Season with salt, a little cayenne and the lemon juice.

Sauce Hollandaise

4 table-spoons vinegar

1 blade mace

1 tea-spoon flour

Yolks of 4 eggs

3 ozs. butter

Season the vinegar, add to it the flour and mix perfectly smooth. Add the mace. Bring to the boil and boil for two or three minutes. Take off the fire, and take out the mace. Add the butter cut in small pieces, and the well-beaten yolks. Stir continually, in one direction, over a bain marie. Serve directly the butter is melted.

Hot Sauces for Roasts, Steaks, Cutlets, etc.

PAGE

Brown Sauce

118

Cucumber Sauce

118

Dutch Horse-radish Sauce

119

Maître d’Hotel I.

120

” ” II.

120

Mushroom Sauce

121

Onion ”

121

Sauce Béarnaise

122

Sauce for Chops and Steaks

122

Sauce Piquante au Citron

123

Sauce Robert

123

Sauce Vinaigrette

124

Tomato Sauce

124

Brown Sauce or Cullis

3 lbs. lean veal

1 lb. raw lean ham

1 oz. butter

6 mushrooms chopped

1 carrot chopped

1 onion chopped

Rind of a lemon

Small bouquet of herbs

1 tea-spoon allspice

1 quart brown stock

¹⁄₄ lb. brown roux

Slice the veal and ham. Add the vegetables, spice, lemon rind and herbs, and brown slightly in a sauce-pan with the butter. Add the stock and brown roux (see p. 13). Boil ten minutes. Stir continually. Put through a tammy.

Cucumber Sauce

1 cucumber

2 table-spoons brown stock

1 oz. butter

1 table-spoon chopped parsley

Juice of half a lemon

¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce

Peel and split the cucumber lengthwise in four pieces. Take out the seeds. Cut in small pieces. Put into salted water and boil gently for seven minutes. Take off and drain. Melt the butter and add to it the stock, cucumber and parsley. Cook gently for half-an-hour. Add the brown sauce and lemon juice.

Dutch Horse-radish Sauce

(For Roast Beef or Steak)

1 tea-cup horse-radish

¹⁄₂ pint water

3 ozs. butter

3 table-spoons flour

1 gill cream

4 yolks of eggs

3 table-spoons elder vinegar

Scrape the horse-radish very finely, and boil it for ten minutes in water. Drain off the water. Cook the horse-radish with the butter and flour for four minutes. Add the water in which the horse-radish was boiled, stirring continually. Heat. Take off the fire. Add the hot cream and then the beaten yolks. Beat well together. Add pepper, salt and the vinegar.

Maître d’Hotel—I

2 ozs. butter

1 table-spoon chopped parsley

Juice of half a lemon

Melt the butter. Skim it. Add the parsley (and, if liked, a little finely chopped shallot), salt, pepper and lemon juice.

Maître d’Hotel—II

4 shallots

1 tea-spoon chopped parsley

1 tea-spoon chopped fennel

1 dozen mushrooms

2 ozs. butter

¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce or béchamel

Chop the shallots. Put them with the parsley, fennel and mushrooms in a sauce-pan in which the butter has been melted. Cook gently for five minutes. Add the brown sauce or béchamel (see pp. 118 and 126). Boil ten minutes. Season and add a squeeze of lemon juice.

Mushroom Sauce

2 dozen small mushrooms

1 oz. butter

1 table-spoon flour

1 pint good gravy

¹⁄₂ a lemon

Cook the mushrooms in the butter until brown and tender. Add the flour. Stir well in and brown. Pour the gravy over the mushrooms. Boil three minutes. Season and add a little lemon juice.

Onion Sauce

(For Roast Mutton)

4 onions

¹⁄₂ pint melted butter (see p. 114)

Slice and chop the onions finely. Boil until tender. Drain and add to the hot melted butter. Season. If preferred, the onion can be first passed through a fine sieve and then added to the melted butter.

Sauce Béarnaise

5 yolks of eggs

2 ozs. butter

1 table-spoon chopped tarragon

1 dessert-spoon vinegar

Put the yolks in a sauce-pan, in a bain marie, and stir into them one ounce of butter. As soon as the eggs begin to thicken, take off the fire. Add another ounce of butter, the tarragon and vinegar. This sauce should be of the consistency of a mayonnaise. Serve with roast meats.

Sauce for Chops or Steak

2 table-spoons red wine

2 table-spoons ketchup

1 tea-spoon butter

1 tea-spoon vinegar

Stir altogether in a sauce-pan. Season and serve very hot.

Sauce Piquante au Citron

(For Calf’s Head)

2 table-spoons chopped onions

1 oz. butter

1 table-spoon flour

1 gill white stock

1 gill white wine

1 lemon

Fry the onion in the butter, with the flour, until a rich yellow. Add to it the stock, which should be boiling, and the wine. Stir together. Add the juice of the lemon and a little of the grated rind. Simmer for quarter of an hour. Strain through a fine sieve.

Sauce Robert

(For Pork)

3 onions

1 gill rich brown gravy

1 tea-spoon made mustard

1 tea-spoon vinegar

2 ozs. butter

1 table-spoon flour

Chop the onions. Fry them in the butter. Add the flour. Mix quite smooth. Add the gravy, salt and pepper. Simmer for half-an-hour. Skim. Add the mustard and vinegar. Serve with pork.

Sauce Vinaigrette

4 table-spoons vinegar

1 bay leaf

1 table-spoon brown sauce

1 table-spoon chopped shallots

2 table-spoons chopped gherkins

1 table-spoon capers

1 table-spoon chopped parsley

1 oz. butter

Boil the vinegar for quarter of an hour with the bay leaf. Add the sauce (see p. 118). Simmer five minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Add the shallots (which should have been previously cooked in the butter and allowed to drain upon a sieve), capers, gherkins and parsley.

Tomato Sauce

6 tomatoes

¹⁄₂ an onion chopped

1 clove

1 slice of ham

1 gill rich brown gravy

1 table-spoon brown roux

Remove the seeds from the tomatoes. Stew them with the onion, ham and clove in an enamel sauce-pan until well cooked. Rub through a tammy. Return to the sauce-pan. Add the gravy and brown roux (see p. 12). Simmer for quarter of an hour.

Hot Sauces for Fowls, Ducks, Rabbits, etc.

PAGE

Apple Sauce

126

Béchamel Sauce

126

Bread Sauce

127

Celery Sauce

127

Gooseberry Sauce

128

Lemon Sauce

128

Parsley Sauce

129

Sauce à la Reine

129

White Sauce

130

Apple Sauce

Set the required quantity of sour apples, pared, cored and sliced, in a small pan inside a large sauce-pan containing boiling water. Let the water boil quickly until the apples are done. Mash them and add sugar to taste.

OR,

Pare, quarter and remove the core of several sour apples. Put them a sauce-pan with a little water. Boil up quickly. Do not stir until cooked. Then add sugar and mash.

Béchamel

1 lb. veal

2 slices ham

2 pints water

¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms

1 onion

Bouquet of herbs

5 table-spoons white roux

1 pint of cream

Slice the veal, ham, mushrooms and onion and stew them gently for an hour and a half in the water. Thicken with the roux (see p. 12). Add the cream. Boil for two or three minutes, stirring continually. Strain.

Bread Sauce

¹⁄₂ pint milk

1 tea-cup bread-crumbs

1 onion

2 pepper-corns

1 tea-spoon butter

Slice the onion and boil it in the milk with the pepper-corns until very tender. Strain off the milk and add it to the bread-crumbs which should be made from stale bread and be very finely grated. Allow the sauce to stand covered for a few minutes. Add the butter. Stir in thoroughly. Season and serve very hot.

Celery Sauce

1 large head of celery

¹⁄₂ pint milk or cream

1 table-spoon white roux

Use the best of the celery only. Cut it in small pieces. Cook it in water until very tender. Put through a sieve. Add it to the cream or milk. Thicken with a small table-spoon white roux (see p. 12). Season.

Gooseberry Sauce

(For Duckling or Goose)

1 gill spinach juice

¹⁄₂ pint stock

¹⁄₂ pint gooseberries

1 table-spoon sugar

1 tea-spoon butter

Cook the gooseberries till tender. Rub them through a sieve. Put them in a sauce-pan on the fire. Add the sugar (more if preferred) and butter. When thoroughly mixed, add the stock with which the spinach juice (see p. 104) has been mixed. Make very hot.

Lemon Sauce

(For Rabbit or Fowl)

1 lemon

1 liver of fowl or rabbit

¹⁄₂ pint melted butter

1 table-spoon chopped parsley

Cook the liver, pound it and put it through a sieve. Peel the lemon, cut the inside, from which the pips must be removed, into very small dice-shaped pieces. Add the lemon and liver to the melted butter. Heat gently, but do not boil. Add the parsley.

Parsley Sauce

Small bunch of parsley

¹⁄₂ pint melted butter

Boil the parsley for five minutes. Drain. Chop finely. Add to the melted butter.

OR,

To one gill of water in which a fowl has been boiled, add one gill of cream, one dessert-spoon white roux (see p. 12), seasoning and the boiled and chopped parsley.

Sauce à la Reine

¹⁄₂ pint veal stock

¹⁄₄ lb. mushrooms

Small bouquet of herbs

¹⁄₂ an onion

¹⁄₂ pint cream

Breast of a fowl

Juice of half a lemon

1 tea-spoon flour

Let the veal stock simmer for half-an-hour with the mushrooms, onion, and herbs. Then strain. Thicken with the flour. Boil two or three minutes. Add the boiling cream. Set back on the fire and add the finely pounded breast, lemon juice and seasoning. Do not allow the sauce to boil after the chicken has been added.

White Sauce

1 gill veal or chicken stock

1 gill cream

Juice of half a lemon

Juice of half a Seville orange

Mix all together. Heat gently, stirring continually. Season.

Hot Sauces for Game, etc.

PAGE

Cream Sauce

132

Game Sauce

132

German Sauce

133

Madeira Sauce

133

Orange Sauce

134

Sauce Poivrade

134

Sour Cream Sauce

135

Cream Sauce

The gravy from two roasted birds

1 gill cream

Stir the cream into gravy of the birds with which it is to be served. Season. Add a few drops of lemon.

Game Sauce

2 onions

A bouquet of thyme, bay leaf and parsley

Several pieces of game

1 slice of ham

1 oz. of butter

4 table-spoons of Madeira

¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce (see p. 118)

Cut the onions, ham and game into small pieces. Add to them the bouquet. Fry them gently in the butter. Add the Madeira. Simmer twenty minutes. Add the sauce and simmer ten minutes. Pass through a sieve.

German Sauce

¹⁄₂ pint rich brown stock

1 tea-spoon glaze

Pheasant bones

12 mushrooms

1 glass white wine

Break the pheasant bones. Add them to the stock. Simmer half-an-hour. Add the mushrooms. Simmer till tender. Put through a sieve. Add glaze, seasoning and glass of wine.

Madeira Sauce

¹⁄₂ onion

¹⁄₂ carrot

1 bay leaf

2 cloves

1 slice ham

1 gill brown stock or gravy

¹⁄₂ pint brown sauce (see p. 118)

1 glass Madeira

Cayenne

Juice of half a lemon

Slice the onion and carrot. Put them, with the bay leaf, clove and the ham, cut in small pieces, in a sauce-pan. Cover with the brown stock. Boil up quickly. Simmer half-an-hour. Season. Add Madeira, brown sauce and lemon juice. Rub through a fine sieve. Colour with caramel colouring (see p. 13) if not dark enough, and stir in the butter.

Orange Sauce

2 Seville oranges

¹⁄₂ lemon

1 glass red wine

1 gill brown gravy

1 lump of sugar

Grate the yellow part of the skin of one orange very finely. Add it to the brown gravy. Simmer a few minutes. Add the wine, the juice of two oranges and half a lemon, a little cayenne and the sugar. Serve with game or wild duck.

Sauce Poivrade

1 oz. butter

2 onions

1 carrot

2 cloves

1 bay leaf

1 tea-spoon flour

1 glass red wine

1 glass water

1 table-spoon vinegar

Melt the butter, add the onions and carrot sliced, the cloves, bay-leaf and flour. Cook until a good brown, then add the wine, water and vinegar. Boil half-an-hour. Strain. Season with salt and whole pepper. Serve with game.

Sour Cream Sauce

2 ozs. butter

2 yolks of eggs

1 table-spoon flour

1 gill sour cream

1 gill brown stock

A little nutmeg

A few drops of lemon juice

Cook the butter and flour together, but do not brown. Take off the fire and add the yolks. When thoroughly mixed add the cream and stock, salt, nutmeg and lemon. Heat but do not boil. Pass through a tammy. Heat again without boiling.

Cold Sauces

PAGE

Anchovy Butter

137

Horse-radish Sauce

137

Mayonnaise Sauce

138

Mint Sauce

138

Sauce for Cold Fish

139

Sauce Gaillarde

139

Sauce Moutarde

140

Sauce Ravigote

140

Sauce Remoulade

141

Anchovy Butter

4 ozs. anchovies

6 ozs. butter

Wash and dry the anchovies. Pound them and put them through a sieve. Beat the butter to a cream and add to it the anchovies.

Horse-radish Sauce

2 table-spoons grated horse-radish

1 tea-spoon mustard

1 dessert-spoon sugar

1 table-spoon vinegar

2 table-spoons thick cream

It is essential in making this sauce that the horse-radish should be grated as fine as possible. Mix all together, adding the vinegar slowly, and the cream last of all.

Mayonnaise Sauce

1 or 2 raw yolks of egg

Olive oil

Vinegar

Put the yolk into a bowl and beat it slightly. Add the oil drop by drop, stirring continually in one direction, and working it well against the sides of the bowl. When the sauce becomes thick, the oil may be added more quickly. Continue adding oil until sufficient sauce has been made. Add vinegar, salt, pepper to taste. This sauce should be made in a cold place and will take about fifteen minutes to make. Finely chopped tarragon, chervil and olives may be added to the mayonnaise.

Mint Sauce

1 handful of mint chopped

1 gill vinegar

2 table-spoons powdered or brown sugar

Melt the sugar in the vinegar. Chop the mint very fine. It cannot be too fine. Add it to the vinegar.

Sauce for Cold Fish

4 anchovies

3 yolks (hard boiled)

2 yolks (raw)

1 tea-spoon mustard

Oil

Vinegar

A little smoked salmon

Clean, bone and pound the anchovies with the hard boiled eggs. Add the mustard and raw yolks, stirring all the time. Add vinegar and oil until you have a sufficient quantity of sauce, using three times as much oil as vinegar, and stirring continually and always in the same direction. Add salt, pepper and a little shredded smoked salmon.

Sauce Gaillarde

2 hard boiled eggs

2 gherkins

4 small pickled onions

A little tarragon and chervil

Oil

Vinegar

Crush the yolks and add to them the whites, gherkins, onions, tarragon and chervil finely chopped. Add oil very slowly, turning continually from left to right until the quantity of sauce required has been made. Add one or two table-spoons of vinegar. Salt, pepper and a little mustard.

Sauce Moutarde

2 hard boiled yolks

2 table-spoons olive oil

3 table-spoons vinegar

1 table-spoon mustard

1 small handful tarragon

Crush the yolks and add to them the oil, salt, pepper, vinegar and mustard. Stir well together. Chop the tarragon very finely. Add it to the sauce.

Sauce Ravigote

2 hard boiled yolks

2 raw yolks

1 dessert-spoon mustard

Tarragon, shallot, parsley, chives

Capers, gherkins

Oil

Vinegar

Pound and pass the hard boiled yolks through a sieve. Mix them thoroughly with the raw yolk and mustard. Add oil as for mayonnaise until the required quantity is made. Season. Add vinegar to taste and a little very finely chopped tarragon, shallot, parsley, and chives. Just before serving add a table-spoon capers and chopped gherkins.

Sauce Remoulade

1 hard boiled yolk

1 raw yolk

1 coffee-spoon mustard

1 large table-spoon chopped shallots, parsley and chervil

Oil

Vinegar

Put the hard boiled and raw yolk with the mustard in a basin. Mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon. Add the oil very slowly, stirring continually in one direction. The quantity of oil used depends on the quantity of sauce required. Add a large table-spoon of finely chopped parsley, chervil and shallots. A very little vinegar, salt and pepper.

THE END

Index

Soups

- Artichoke Soup, 35.

- ” ”, 42.

- Asparagus, Purée of, 61.

- Asparagus Soup, 35.

- Bain Marie, 110.

- Barley Broth, 87.

- Beef Essence, 95.

- Beef Tea,—I., 95.

- ” ” II., 96.

- ” ” III., 96.

- Bisques, 78-80.

- Black Beans, Purée of, 62.

- Bouillabaisse, 82.

- Broad Beans, Purée of, 63.

- Broths, 87-92.

- Brown Bread Soup, 51.

- Brown Soup, 24.

- Brown Soup Stock, 7.

- Brunoise, 16.

- Calves’ Foot Broth, 97.

- Caramel Colouring, 13.

- Carrots, Purée of, 63.

- Carrot Soup, 42.

- Cauliflower Cream, 51.

- Cauliflower Soup, 36.

- Celery Cream, 43.

- Celery Soup, 36.

- Chestnut Soup, 37.

- Chicken Broth, 87.

- ” ”, 98.

- Chicken Custard, 98.

- Chicken Panada, 99.

- Chicken Soup, 57.

- Chicken Stock, 9.

- Chicken Tea, 100.

- Clarify, How to, 4.

- Clear Brown Stock, 8.

- Clear Soups, 16-22.

- Clear Soup with Quenelles, rice, etc., 22.

- Cockie Leekie, 88.

- Colouring for Soups, 13, 105.

- Common Stock, 7.

- Consommé, 9.

- ” with poached eggs, 16.

- Crab Bisque, 78.

- Cream of Pearl Barley, 25.

- Cream of Rice, 25.

- ” ” ” and Parmesan, 52.

- Croûte au pot, 17.

- ” ” ” Gratinée, 18.

- Croûtons, 104.

- Cucumber Soup, 52.

- Custards, 104.

- Dutch Soup, 53.

- Economical Stock, 10.

- Endive, Purée of, 64.

- Fat, How to remove, 3.

- Fire, Care of, 1.

- Fish Soups, 82-85.

- Fish Soup, 83.

- Flemish Soup, 53.

- Force-meat Balls, 105.

- Fowl, Purée of, 73.

- Fowl, Purée of, à la Reine Margot, 73.

- Friar’s Chicken, 54.

- Game Broth, 89.

- Game Panada, 99.

- Game Soup, 18.

- Giblet Soup, 26.

- Glaze, 14.

- Green colouring for Soups, 105.

- Green Pea Soup, 37.

- Green Peas, Purée of—I., 65.

- Green Peas, Purée of—II., 65.

- Green Peas, Purée of, Dried, 66.

- Hare, Purée of, 74.

- Hare Soup, 27.

- Hotch Potch, 90.

- Imperial Soup, 19.

- Invalid Broths and Soups, 95-101.

- Italian Dried Green Peas, Purée of, 66.

- Italian Macaroni Soup, 54.

- Julienne, 20.

- Left-over Soup, 28.

- Lentils, Purée of, 67.

- Liaison of cream and eggs, Soups made with, 51-58.

- Lobster Bisque, 78.

- Macaroni Soup (clear), 20.

- Macaroni Soup (Italian), 54.

- Macaroni Soup (Thick), 55.

- Meat Purées, 73-76.

- Mock Bisque, 44.

- Mock Turtle, 29.

- Mulligatawny, 30.

- Mushroom Soup, 38.

- Mutton Broth, 100.

- Onions, Purée of, 68.

- Ox-tail Soup, 31.

- Oyster Bisque, 79.

- Oyster Soup, 84.

- Pearl Barley, Cream of, 25.

- Pheasant, Purée of, 75.

- Polish Soup, 39.

- Portuguese Soup, 44.

- Potato Balls, 106.

- ” Broth, 90.

- ” Cream, 45.

- ” Soup, 46.

- Purées of Meat, 73-76.

- Quenelles, 106, 107.

- Rabbit, Purée of, 75.

- Rice, 107.

- Rice Balls, 108.

- Rice, Cream of, 25.

- Rice, Purée of, 68.

- Rice, Savoury, 108.

- Roux, 12.

- Russian Soup, 56.

- Salmon Soup, 84.

- Scotch Broth, 91.

- Seasoning, 3.

- Sheep’s Head Broth, 92.

- Sorrel Soup, 46.

- Spinach Colouring, 105.

- Spring Soup, 21.

- Stock, General Remarks, on, 1-5.

- Stocks, 7-11.

- Straining Soup, 4.

- Summer Soup, 47.

- Thickening for Soups, 12.

- Thick Soups, 24-33.

- Thick Vegetable Soups made with Stock, 35-39.

- Tomato Soup, 39.

- ” ”, 47.

- Turkish Soup, 56.

- Turnips, Purée of, 69.

- Veal Broth, 101.

- Veal Soup (White), 58.

- Veal Stock, 10.

- Vegetable Purées, 61-69.

- Vegetable Soups made with Stock, 35-39.

- Vegetable Soups without Stock, 42-47.

- Venison Soup, 33.

- Vermicelli, 22.

- Water Cress Soup, 57.

- White Chicken Soup, 57.

- White Veal Soup, 58.

- Winter Vegetables, Purée of, 69.

Sauces

- Anchovy Butter, 137.

- Anchovy Sauce, 114.

- Apple Sauce, 126.

- Béchamel, 126.

- Black Butter, 112.

- Bread Sauce, 127.

- Brown Sauce, 118.

- Celery Sauce, 127.

- Cold Sauces, 137-141.

- Cream Sauce, 132.

- Cucumber Sauce, 114.

- ” ”, 118.

- Cullis, 118.

- Dutch Sauce, 112.

- Egg Sauce, 114.

- Fish Sauces, 112-116.

- Game Sauce, 132.

- Genoese Sauce, 113.

- German Sauce, 133.

- Gooseberry Sauce, 128.

- Horse-radish Sauce (cold), 137.

- Horse-radish Sauce (Dutch), 119.

- Hot Sauces for Fowls, Ducks, etc., 126-130.

- Hot Sauces for Game, 132-135.

- Hot Sauces for Roasts, 118-124.

- Italian Sauce, 113.

- Lemon Sauce, 128.

- Maître d’Hotel Sauce, 114.

- ” ” ”, 120.

- Mayonnaise Sauce, 138.

- Melted Butter, 114.

- Mint Sauce, 138.

- Mushroom Sauce, 121.

- Onion Sauce, 121.

- Orange Sauce, 134.

- Oyster Sauce, 115.

- Parsley Sauce, 129.

- Sauce Béarnaise, 122.

- ” for Chops and Steaks, 122.

- Sauce for Cold Fish, 139.

- Sauce Gaillarde, 139.

- ” Hollandaise, 115.

- ” Moutarde, 140.

- ” Piquante au Citron, 123.

- Sauce Poivrade, 134.

- ” Ravigote, 140.

- ” à la Reine, 129.

- ” Remoulade, 141.

- ” Robert, 123.

- ” Vinaigrette, 124.

- Shrimp Sauce, 114.

- Sour Cream Sauce, 135

- Tomato Sauce, 124.

- White Sauce, 130.

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Table of Contents

The New Cookery Books

THE NEW COOKERY BOOKS.

The Soup and Sauce Book

Preface

Table of Contents

Soups

Sauces

General Remarks on Stock

Stocks

Common Stock

Brown Soup Stock

Clear Brown Stock

Consommé

Chicken Stock

Veal Stock

Economical Stock for thick Soups, Purées, etc.

General Remarks on Soups

Clear Soups

Brunoise

Consommé with poached eggs

Croûte au pot

Croûte au pot gratinée

Game Soup

Imperial Soup

For Custard

Julienne

Macaroni Soup

Spring Soup

Vermicelli

Other Clear Soups

Thick Soups

Brown Soup

Cream of Pearl Barley

Cream of Rice

Giblet Soup

Hare Soup

Left-over Soup

Mock-Turtle

Mulligatawny

Ox-tail Soup

Venison Soup

Thickened Vegetable Soups made with Stock

Artichoke Soup

Asparagus Soup

Cauliflower Soup

Celery Soup

Chestnut Soup

Green Pea Soup

Mushroom Soup

Polish Soup

Tomato Soup

Vegetable Soups made without Stock

Artichoke Soup

Carrot Soup

Celery Cream

Mock Bisque

Portuguese Soup

Potato Cream

Potato Soup

Sorrel Soup

Summer Soup

Tomato Soup

Soups thickened with a Liaison of Cream and Yolk of Egg

Brown Bread Soup

Cauliflower Cream

Cream of Rice with Parmesan

Cucumber Soup

Dutch Soup

Flemish Soup

Friar’s Chicken

Italian Macaroni Soup—I

Macaroni Soup—II

Russian Soup

Turkish Soup

Water-cress Soup

White Chicken Soup

White Veal Soup

Vegetable Purées

Purée of Asparagus

Purée of Black Beans

Purée of Broad Beans

Purée of Carrots

Purée of Endive

Purée of Green Peas—I

Purée of Green Peas—II

Purée of Italian Dried Green Peas

Purée of Lentils

Purée of Onions

Purée of Rice

Purée of Turnip

Purée of Winter Vegetables

Meat Purées

Purée of Fowl à la Reine

Purée of Fowl à la Reine Margot

Purée of Hare

Purée of Pheasants

Purée of Rabbit

Bisques

Crab Bisque

Lobster Bisque

Oyster Bisque

Fish Soups

Bouillabaisse

Fish Soup

Oyster Soup

Salmon Soup

Broths

Barley Broth

Chicken Broth

Cockie Leekie

Game Broth

Hotch Potch

Potato Broth

Scotch Broth

Sheep’s Head Broth

Broths and Soups for Invalids

Beef Essence

Beef Tea—I

Beef Tea—II

Beef Tea—III

Calves’ Foot Broth (or Jelly)

Chicken Broth

Chicken Custard

Chicken Panada

Game Panada

Chicken Tea

Mutton Broth

Veal Broth

Accessories

Croûtons

Custards for Clear Soup

Force-meat Balls

Green Colouring

Potato Balls

Quenelles of Chicken, Game, Hare or Rabbit

Quenelles of Marrow

Rice

Savoury Rice

Rice Balls

Sauces

Hot Sauces for Fish

Black Butter

Dutch Sauce

Genoese Sauce

Italian Sauce

Maître d’Hotel

Melted Butter

Oyster Sauce

Sauce Hollandaise

Hot Sauces for Roasts, Steaks, Cutlets, etc.

Brown Sauce or Cullis

Cucumber Sauce

Dutch Horse-radish Sauce

Maître d’Hotel—I

Maître d’Hotel—II

Mushroom Sauce

Onion Sauce

Sauce Béarnaise

Sauce for Chops or Steak

Sauce Piquante au Citron

Sauce Robert

Sauce Vinaigrette

Tomato Sauce

Hot Sauces for Fowls, Ducks, Rabbits, etc.

Apple Sauce

Béchamel

Bread Sauce

Celery Sauce

Gooseberry Sauce

Lemon Sauce

Parsley Sauce

Sauce à la Reine

White Sauce

Hot Sauces for Game, etc.

Cream Sauce

Game Sauce

German Sauce

Madeira Sauce

Orange Sauce

Sauce Poivrade

Sour Cream Sauce

Cold Sauces

Anchovy Butter

Horse-radish Sauce

Mayonnaise Sauce

Mint Sauce

Sauce for Cold Fish

Sauce Gaillarde

Sauce Moutarde

Sauce Ravigote

Sauce Remoulade

Index

Soups

Sauces

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